nice BB dart ...crappy rear frame rails..broken mount

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SGBARRACUDA said:
If you were closer, I have afew cars you could come take one or two frame rails out of.
You know I know it is a "BUYER BE AWARE" world, but I sucks that people will sell stuff like this and not tell a potential buyer.
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he owns a business.... he can make it right like he said...or i can do poopy reviews of his business and make buyers beware... i share in some of the responsibility, the part i didnt like is the mount collapsing on the way home ..i live 40 miles from where i bought it...
 
tarvin890 said:
i like this idea... treat the affected metal with rust mort or grind.. then cover!
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I'm not 100% sure, but I think these only cover the sides. I don't think there is a flange to weld to the floor structure, which it appears you need. It looks like you would be better off with original frame sections. Just an observation!!
 
If you can run a drill and a mig welder you can fix that car yourself.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you can run a drill and a mig welder you can fix that car yourself.
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so... drill to dill out the rivets or welds that hold it in? i can do both... might be cheaper to buy a mig that i dont have... and do it...can you explain...short version...the process?:color:
 
GEO said:
I would expect to find more hidden damage on the car if the rear frame is rusted that badly
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Absolutely........like I mentioned in post #6. I would be VERY surprised if that's the only rust on that car. One little section of frame rail just doesn't rust all by itself on a otherwise solid car. The best recourse at this point if the seller is willing to work with you is to GET YOUR MONEY BACK!!!!! let the seller deal with it!
 
replicaracer43 said:
Absolutely........like I mentioned in post #6. I would be VERY surprised if that's the only rust on that car. One little section of frame rail just doesn't rust all by itself on a otherwise solid car. The best recourse at this point if the seller is willing to work with you is to GET YOUR MONEY BACK!!!!! let the seller deal with it!
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i gave it a good going over... the whole bottom had been undercaoted...way back when. the pans and main middle section is great.... the issue seems to be the undercoating was not done well at the rear frame rail are... im suspecting the the rust began its journey there and made its march forward...i dont see someone building a show car back in 2002 with a rusty chassis... it seems it was the hidden devil that has been chewing its was over the years since. i am sick about it... 8250 dollar car.. not bad.. sad thing is my last dart was perfect in every way (except for the 406 chev motor) i paid 6800 for the red one... it long gone... on to work on this one..thanks for all the input... this is the difference between mopar community and the 5 letter word community....
 

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replicaracer43 said:
Absolutely........like I mentioned in post #6. I would be VERY surprised if that's the only rust on that car. One little section of frame rail just doesn't rust all by itself on a otherwise solid car. The best recourse at this point if the seller is willing to work with you is to GET YOUR MONEY BACK!!!!! let the seller deal with it!
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that man i am sure will not do a refund... i get estimates tomorrow and will talk with him about those numbers...
 
SOMEBODY........it doesn't matter who.........did a cosmetic job on the frame rails to sell the car (the spray foam is a dead giveaway as well as the self tapping screws through the trunk floor).
I don't care if it was a show car in 2002, it's a pile of crap now frame wise.
And it has been for some time.
You got screwed by the seller to make it mild!
He knew the condition of the rails, that's why he was selling it.
Period.
On a positive note, it can be fixed for not a lot if you can do it yourself, that is if it's only the rear frame rails.
Take a screwdriver or a chipping hammer to the frames and floors front and rear every inch and hit it solidly......... and i bet there's a lot more rot you can't see. Pay close attention to the torsion bar cross member as well and the top of the frame where the front frame rail mates to the upper control arms. These are usually the bad spots to look at first.
Let's not sugar coat it here, the engine isn't what he said it was, and the frame at least on the back is bad.
I'll bet the whole car is rotten if you really get into it.
Then take pictures and call him about it and if that doesn't work, tell him you are going to contact your lawyer.
Very unsafe car he sold you!
 
Dartnut said:
SOMEBODY........it doesn't matter who.........did a cosmetic job on the frame rails to sell the car (the spray foam is a dead giveaway as well as the self tapping screws through the trunk floor).
I don't care if it was a show car in 2002, it's a pile of crap now frame wise.
And it has been for some time.
You got screwed by the seller to make it mild!
He knew the condition of the rails, that's why he was selling it.
Period.
On a positive note, it can be fixed for not a lot if you can do it yourself, that is if it's only the rear frame rails.
Take a screwdriver or a chipping hammer to the frames and floors front and rear every inch and hit it solidly......... and i bet there's a lot more rot you can't see. Pay close attention to the torsion bar cross member as well and the top of the frame where the front frame rail mates to the upper control arms. These are usually the bad spots to look at first.
Let's not sugar coat it here, the engine isn't what he said it was, and the frame at least on the back is bad.
I'll bet the whole car is rotten if you really get into it.
Then take pictures and call him about it and if that doesn't work, tell him you are going to contact your lawyer.
Very unsafe car he sold you!
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good advice... thats the part im annoyed about... leaf spring mount breaking on the way home... very unsafe.
 
Caps are welding good metal over old rotten metal. Not a good combo IMO. I've done a couple set of partial rail replacement's in B-Bodies (mid axle hump back), and would recommend you just cut the old garbage out and replace with new.

As far as the complexity of the repair, it's not terribly hard. First thing you need to do is clean those rails down to bare metal to see where your good metal actually starts. Along with others, i'd guess someone was tying to hide problems with undercoating. If in fact it's isolated to the very rear it wont be too hard of a repair because you'll just have to worry about getting the proper length, so the shackle mounts are in the right position, as well as the butting up to the rear crossmember. You'd have a decent section of the rear rail to guide/template the replacement metal with. Replacing a rail further up or a full rail is a different ballgame. For that you need to tally in rail orientation up & down, side to side and front to back. Get's tricky unless you have a jig or are stealthy with a plumb bob. Either way....sucks to hear. Never fun playing with frame rails, especially on a car that's pretty decent in all the other aspects of the chassis.
 
GEO said:
I would expect to find more hidden damage on the car if the rear frame is rusted that badly
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Beyond a shadow of a doubt. That's why I also agree the car is a great candidate to back half. Besides that, it's a big block in an A body. If that motor is anything but a big POS, it needs back halfed to help it hook up.
 
Unfortunately probably all true.



Dartnut said:
SOMEBODY........it doesn't matter who.........did a cosmetic job on the frame rails to sell the car (the spray foam is a dead giveaway as well as the self tapping screws through the trunk floor).
I don't care if it was a show car in 2002, it's a pile of crap now frame wise.
And it has been for some time.
You got screwed by the seller to make it mild!
He knew the condition of the rails, that's why he was selling it.
Period.
On a positive note, it can be fixed for not a lot if you can do it yourself, that is if it's only the rear frame rails.
Take a screwdriver or a chipping hammer to the frames and floors front and rear every inch and hit it solidly......... and i bet there's a lot more rot you can't see. Pay close attention to the torsion bar cross member as well and the top of the frame where the front frame rail mates to the upper control arms. These are usually the bad spots to look at first.
Let's not sugar coat it here, the engine isn't what he said it was, and the frame at least on the back is bad.
I'll bet the whole car is rotten if you really get into it.
Then take pictures and call him about it and if that doesn't work, tell him you are going to contact your lawyer.
Very unsafe car he sold you!
Click to expand...
 
RustyRatRod said:
Unfortunately probably all true.[/Q


I have sent an email to seller, he owns a large equiptment business in eastern NC...i suspect he may want this to not get ugly... thanks for all the input,,, good and bad... 1st ive ever seen spray foam.... have to have a shifty mind to do something like that.... people suck.:banghead:
Click to expand...
 
great local friend restores mopars... he said 1k to do rear sections. or 2k for full length...he will look at tomorrow to get the BIG picture.
 
I smell a back half. That car would be cool wif da big meets yo.
 
That's the picture from the craigslist add.....not sure how you post a link, its on the charlotte craigslist.



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Could be the guy he bought it from and has not taken the ad down.
 
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