What headers for Big Block Scamp

-
What heads?

There are options like TTI, Maddog, and Proparts along with some I'm forgetting but none of them are easy.

TTI are one piece, might trap the starter and very hard to work with, the 1 7/8 are easier than the 2".

The Maddogs may need sent back for adjustments like mine did. Maybe not.

The Proparts are my favorite cuz they are multi-piece (as are the Maddogs), but 3 tubes go through your fenderwells.
 
tti's are expensive (close to 1k for ceramic polished) but most regard them as the best.... i watched on ebay for a while and got a really good used ceramic set for 450
 
I have a 383 Scamp with T.T.I. 17/8" ceramic. Although they may be difficult to install the fit and finish are great. If the instructions are followed installation is easy but time consuming. I love them. Schumacher makes tri-y headers that may be easier to install.
 
doug 371 said:
I don't see 1 7/8 listed for a body
Click to expand...

I just looked and I don't see them either for an A-body.

I used to have a set of 2" CPPA underchassis a-body headers, which I believe CPPA became TTI, they were the best running headers on my car but they were a nightmare that I'd never want to do again, especially for a race car that needs alot of maintenance.

The Maddogs point the exhaust right at the tranny crossmember which kinda stinks.

I had the Proparts 2" on my 69 Dart and liked them the most, it's so nice to install the tranny and motor and starter without the headers in the way.

My current car is just a street cruiser, I bought a set of 1 3/4 Hedman B-body headers used for $75!! They were already on a low deck A-body so they had all the right dents installed already lol. There's a thread somewhere that shows some photos of using the B-body headers, it might be on Bigblockdart.com.
 
ProSport said:
There are options like TTI, Maddog, and Proparts along with some I'm forgetting but none of them are easy.

.
Click to expand...

Schumacher is the other. They can be installed with the engine bolted in place. (so can the pro parts)
 
If you are running a stock type head and it's a street car I would run the TTI's. Yea they cost but man an awesome header with lots of road clearance. Have them on my Duster 440. They are a bit of a pain to install but worth it.

For a race car I liked the proparts headers. Yea you have to cut holes but easy to get out for engine work and starter changes are easy. They have fairly good plug clearance too. I think 2 tubes go through the fenders on one side and 3 go through on the drivers side. I might have the sides mixed.
 
I would drop the motor and K-frame out, bolt the headers on and lower the body
right back over it. You couldn't pay me to do it any other way.
 
Have you looked at Schumacher? I use their tri-y headers on my 440 duster
 
Anybody know much about the Hooker fender exit headers?
 
There might be an issue with the stock z-bar using TTI's on a 440. The Shumachers will work with a stock z-bar as far as I know. When I installed 2" TTI's on my 440 I dropped the k-frame/front suspension, installed engine/headers/trans as a complete unit. To get a wrench on the passenger side looks nearly impossible. My car is a 68 Dart.
 
Old Man Mopar said:
I would drop the motor and K-frame out, bolt the headers on and lower the body
right back over it. You couldn't pay me to do it any other way.
Click to expand...

I have never done it that way but I've seen many people talk about how it's the only way to do it, might have to try that next time. I'm assuming the torsion bars will need removed first, then unbolt the k-member.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Anybody know much about the Hooker fender exit headers?
Click to expand...

They normally require a shorter front tire, harder to turn the wheels lock to lock, and they are not anywhere near equal length but than again neither are the Proparts and they work well. But the full fenderwell headers are definitely easier to work with.
 
Keith Mopar said:
Thanks roccodart, yes the Schumachers are good and don't trap the starter.
Click to expand...

they sacrifice some performance but the ease of fitment is worth something. My starter had to be pulled to install the headers but maybe if I jacked the engine up I wouldn't have had to do that. The TTI's are bead in regards to the starter.


Chameleon said:
There might be an issue with the stock z-bar using TTI's on a 440.
Click to expand...

There is an issue. ON TTI's website you will find a diagram and instructions on how to modify the Z-bar.



rumblefish360 said:
Anybody know much about the Hooker fender exit headers?
Click to expand...

USed them once, never again. Tire clearance issues. Obviously cutting the hell out of your inner fenders. Ground clearance.



ProSport said:
I have never done it that way but I've seen many people talk about how it's the only way to do it, might have to try that next time. I'm assuming the torsion bars will need removed first, then unbolt the k-member.
Click to expand...

You have to remove T-bars and also have to pull the steering column.
 
I'm not positive on an RB but on a low-deck B-motor you can change the #7 header pipe on TTi's
and the Z-bar will fit. HemiDenny did this one on Hooshpuppy's car but I don't know if he has the
time or inclination to make any more of them. If he did, he would probably want all of your parts
and pieces in front of him. We are baffled why TTi doesn't just build them this way to start with.


Dans%20383%20029_zpsadkzofbu.jpg

Dans%20383%20042_zps2ogghzho.jpg

Dans%20383%20038_zpsvxcj9xmd.jpg

Dans%20383%20028_zps6hitdyg8.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top