Whats better timing?

Ok, i have ben playin with the timing on my 70 duster...
Its got a fresh 360, .060 over, kb-107 pistons, open chamber 360 heads, air gap intake, holley 750 dbl pumper, cam is flat tappet, .497in/.483ex lift, 235in/249ex duration @.050 and 107 lobe separation, its the comp cams mega thumpr, roller rockers, all msd ignition with pro billet dizzy...
Ok i have locked out the dizzy right now at 32deg, i kno it can use more but anything more advanced it kicks back on starter.... I also have heard in here 22deg is about where u want it to start and 36max.... I wud rather run sum kinda advance over being locked in...
But the msd dizzy only supplys bushings to get u in the 18 deg of diffrence, when im lookin for closer to 15deg....
What u guys think?? Run it at 18deg initial, and 36 total, or lock it out at 36 and get a start retard??
This is a street car, but i drive it hard like its at the track
Thanx for the imput

Do a search here. One of the members offered shorter curve bushings for the MSD stuff. I agree, probly a shorter advance might help Be careful running too much total. You cannot always hear knock. ive ended up with broken piston lands

Searched, found, and messaged him...thanx

start around 15 initial and 33 total

I made these bushings and have considered selling them for a profit. What's a fair price? $20

Your combo is much like mine,except Im runnng Eddies,10.7 cr. and .034quench
I highly recommend putting less initial into it. 18/36 sounds about right. If you are unfamiliar with the sound of detonation, I would sneak up on the fullpower timing though, starting with a little less max; perhaps 34*. On the street, in an A-body, a couple degrees less than optimum,I havent been able to notice.Mine works very well with as low as 14* idle timing.I have been running about 14/34 for many years.
I also run vacuum advance, of 20 to 22*, bringing it in as fast as possible. I preach streeters need vacuum advance. Guys without it IMO are missing out.
Dont be afraid to run less than the published power timing numbers.Sneak up on the numbers. On the street you wont feel 2*, until its 2* too much. Even then you could miss it if youre not paying attention.
Locked-timing is for race cars, or maybe cars with really BIG cams.Your cam, like mine, is just right. Certainly not BIG. Dont be in a hurry to swap it out. You wil lose bottom end torque way faster than gain useable power.Streeters are way more fun with a strong bottom end.

I unlocked the msd dizzy and put the weights back in... Its at about 22idle/36max, fully advanced around 2000rpm.. The dizzy has no vacuum advance, so thats all i got for advance....so far seems good, the temp droped right around 160-170, it was gettin warm (190-210) b4 with timing all screwed up...i was really hopeing the temp wud sit right on 160, but its alot better than 200!
Thanx for all the helpful advice guys!

If you have a M/T or a low stall TC, all in by 2000 IMO is too fast. The M/T car for sure will be a little jumpy, and tends to be like an off/on switch when gently rolling on the throttle, in the lower sub-2000 rpms. All in by 3000, works better for me. But best will be if you had a vacuum advance.

Engine will make more torque and power running hotter. Just so long as it doesnt have an overheat tendency, which on your combo should be easily solve-able. I have run mine at 200ish for 15 years. Easier to tune too.

Like I said before, sneak up on the max timing. You will not notice the difference going 2 to 4 degrees less than optimum; but the engine will notice 2 too many.Better 4* short that 2* too many. But then I run 87E10 on my combo with zero problems.

More timing means more heat. Your camshaft is small and I would think 18in would be good. You want as much initial timing until it kicks back on the starter.