Drop Spindles - PST vs. Magnum Force vs. Fatman vs. ?

I know this isn't what you asked, but buy a set of larger diameter torsion bars, lower with the adjusters, and get a proper alignment. You'll save hundreds of dollars and your car will handle better too. Now, onto what you actually asked...

The fatman spindles are actually fabricated, meaning, they're multiple different pieces that are then welded together to form the spindle. Some people do not like that idea at all, although as long as they're designed and welded properly it should work fine. They don't use the stock 73+ lower ball joint (because it has the steering arm attached). The steering arm is a part of the spindle instead of part of the ball joint, which allows them to relocate it. What I don't know is if they relocate it the full 2" to keep the relationship between the "axle" centerline and the tie rod end stock, or if it's another amount. Since the stock geometry has very little bump steer, if the relocation is anything other than 2" the bump steer is still probably increased from stock.

I know the Magnumforce spindles don't address that at all. They use the stock lower ball joint, so the outer tie rod end remains in the same location as the stock spindles. But since the drop spindle moves the centerline of the "axle", that means there's an extra 2" vertically between the axle centerline and the outer tie rod, so you get more bumpsteer than stock. I ran the MF 2" drop spindles on my Challenger for a few years without any really significant issues. But I also got rid of them, lowered the car with the adjusters, and maintained the same ride height while lowering my roll center, improving handling, and returning the bump steer to the stock amounts (very little) in the process.

I haven't used or seen the PST drop spindles in person. They appear to be very similar, if not identical, to the MF spindles. In the pictures on their website they appear to be identical to the MF spindles I had.

But again, if you increase the size of your torsion bars you also reduce the amount of suspension travel that you need to have. So, you can lower the car substantially with the torsion bar adjusters if you increase the size of the torsion bars. That also puts the control arms very close to parallel with the ground, which improves the camber curve on the suspension travel and reduces the roll center of the suspension. Using the drop spindles lowers the car and its CG, but if you lower the car exactly 2" the control arm angles remain the same as stock, so the roll center stays the same too. And the bump steer in increased. If you actually lower your car LESS than the full 2" you get from the drop spindles, you actually RAISE the roll center of the car. Those are all finer points to suspension geometry and handling, and if you're just cruising around on the street most people probably won't notice much of a difference, if any at all. But, that IS what happens.

And since you can get a decent set of 1.03" torsion bars for $200 and lower the car properly, why would you spend $440-$600 for a set of drop spindles? Heck for the same money you could buy a set of 1.03" torsion bars, a great set of front shocks, AND get the car aligned.