Can anyone ID this shifter?

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jeremy2146

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Can Anyone ID this shifter? I'm just wondering if its a hurst before I do, I looks kinda like one.
 

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Wow that was quick,

Looks like a hurst but a side pic would help and a close up pic of the mechanism would also help.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
I'm sorry guys, that's all I got, I'm going to look at the whole setup tomorrow, just was wondering if anyone could tell me something about the shifter
 
Impossible without a shot of the actual mechanism. If it is a Hurst, it should have Hurst stamped right on it.
 
Hard to tell. Just check make sure it says "Hurst" on the side and preferably also the words "Competition Plus". There's also two types of shifters - "slip-in" and "bolt-in"

Good luck! Looks nice a nice setup from this angle.
 
Looks like a factory shifter from an f body Aspen or Volare. I have one buried in the garage. I can get a photograph late tomorrow.
 
he listed it as being from an a body and from everything ive looked up it looks like it has the correct bend for an a body
 
jeremy2146 said:
did they make non hurst shifter for factory cars? Allpar is saying they all came with hurst
Click to expand...

They had Inland shifters from '66 - '68 - they had a reverse lockout, so I don't think this is an Inland - the way the shift handle mounts was way different on the Inlands - you want a Hurst shifter (but if you're trying for a '66-'68 stock look, Brewers has a Hurst shifter that will accept an Inland shift handle - http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=50)

'64-'65 had bolt on shift handles
'66-'68 had bolt on handles, but on an Inland shifter
'68-'71 had press fit handles (plus trucks for '76-'87)
'71 and up had a bolt in, too

Here are a couple of composite pics I put together - the first is from pics from Brewer's Performance's site (http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=52) the Inland shifter details are from some random eBay listing - hope this helps!
 

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64DartGTinAZ said:
They had Inland shifters from '66 - '68 - they had a reverse lockout, so I don't think this is an Inland - the way the shift handle mounts was way different on the Inlands - you want a Hurst shifter (but if you're trying for a '66-'68 stock look, Brewers has a Hurst shifter that will accept an Inland shift handle - http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=50)

'64-'65 had bolt on shift handles
'66-'68 had bolt on handles, but on an Inland shifter
'68-'71 had press fit handles (plus trucks for '76-'87)
'71 and up had a bolt in, too

Here are a couple of composite pics I put together - the first is from pics from Brewer's Performance's site (http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=52) the Inland shifter details are from some random eBay listing - hope this helps!
Click to expand...

Definitely helps, thanks a lot!! Im pretty sure this on is a factory hurst.
 
I will let you guys know what I pick up. Im supposed to be getting a performance clutch (cant remember what brand he said), the bellhousing and the iron OD 833 with the shifter setup ( the picture) for $495.
 
Look like an OD f-body unit to me. If the bell is proper it is a good deal at that price. v8 OD bells are hard to find around here.

If doing conversion - do you have pedals, z-bar and down-bar yet?
 
Ok here I did pick it up, it is in fact a Hurst competition plus shifter and rocky no I don't have any of that stuff yet. I will need pedals, all the linkage, clutch fork, z bar and brackets, 130 tooth flywheel and clutch, but I will but those new
 
Here are a couple of better pics, anyone know what handle came on this lever?
 

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Aftermarket Hurst generic type shifter handle. Not worth nearly what a 68-76 factory shifter handle is worth ($75-$125) or an F-body one.

Be sure to open the side case and look at the gear engaging teeth. The gear teeth rarely wear. More likely to pit from laying around and getting water damage. Look to see if the engaging teeth have sharp points. The engaging teeth are part of the gear. So to fix you need a new gear (expensive) or reface die grind very carefully each engaging tooth (time comsuming, slightly trickey).

Bring a flashlight, brake clean, and some rags, tools to get side cover off (1/2" and 9/16" socket, screwdriver to get forks loose). You'll probably have to brake clean the engaging teeth to get the oil off them to look at them.

read here on engaging teeth: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=309218&highlight=engaging+teeth
 
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