help! chargeing problem since mad bypass!!

I'm sure there are many many ways to do this. The stars "bite" into the paint. There's actually no reason at all NOT to use them between the firewall and VR, but I guess you don't have to

The whole deal is, the VR to be accurate, MUST see EXACTLY what the battery voltage is doing. It must be exactly at battery "same as negative" or within a couple of tenths of a volt.

Likewise, the IGN terminal must ALSO be within say, .2--.3V of battery positive and often IS NOT. This is a VERY troublesome deal with these old girls. "In the path" from the battery to the VR, are several connections which can drop the voltage.

Please understand that the MORE LOAD (wattage, current) that you place on a circuit, the LOWER the voltage becomes.

So the path, "generally" is........Starter relay (battery) --- through the firewall connector --- to the ammeter and through it ---- to the welded splice ---- to the ignition switch connector -- through the switch contacts --- back through the ignition switch connector (now on the blue IGN 1 "run" line) --- BACK OUT through the firewall connector, and finally, split off to all underhood loads

Depending on the year, this can consist of

ignition circuit

VR "IGN" terminal

Alternator field (blue) 70 and later

electric choke if used

idle solenoid on some cars (six pack, etc)

distributor retard solenoid on some models

and depending on year, model, "some other" smog doo-dad

All these loads draw CURRENT and magnify a bad connection in things like the bulkhead connector and or ignition switch. Anyplace there is a termination.

There has even been (rare) failures of the famous "welded splice."

THE ABOVE is the NUMBER ONE problem of over-voltage in charging circuits. If your battery "run" voltage is up around 14.7 to 15 or more volts, this harness problem is the very likely cause.