steering wheel play

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mrose

mrose

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I have around 1-2 inches of free play in my steering wheel. It seems to be coming from the coupler like device that is on the shaft around 3 inches up from the steering box. Can this be replaced or rebuilt?
 
(no usable advice, but still)

have you ever noticed in movies when people drive a car?
the car is going straight but they are constantly moving the steering wheel left to right?

yeah, they're driving a 40+ year old mopar
 
As far as I know I have had my steering column out of the car and I think some slack is built into the column when it sits in the coupler. The end of the column sits in the coupler and tracks up and down within the coupler held in place with two metal guide plates that sit on each end of a cross shaft. The column shouldn't move back and forth easily when sitting in the car and pulling on it. The slack is built into the system so during normal driving conditions the column moves a little to account for road conditions. If I'm wrong about this someone please correct me.
 
There are kits out there as well as a U joint type replacement, but I have no experience with them.
Just seen people here use them, so I'm sure given a little time you will get your answer.
 
I rebuilt mine a while back, you need to loosen and move the steering wheel back, drive out the rolled pin that holds the housing to the steering gear. It's a job on the V8s. Replacing the spring and shoes inside will fix the problem. Check the housing for wear. I got the kit off eBay.
 
Dealer still sells the rebuild kit.
Check the shoes, they might be installed incorrectly.
When I got my car the shoes were installed 90* out and the slop was terrible.
 

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The shoes, dowels, shoe spring and seal (shown above) are furnished in the Pot Connector available from Firm Feel for about $25. I'd show you a picture, but I can't find the cable to go from my computer to the camera. Firm Feel does NOT show a picture of the kit on their website.
 
Just a quick question topic related. After you drive the roll pin out, disconnect any linkage wires, etc.... You should be able to remove the steering column. Is it supposed to come out in two pieces?
 
well the whole steering column is one piece. You will have to remove the 3 bolts on the firewall where the column goes through. Also the column support under the dash and the roll pin on the coupler. {you couls also technically leave the coupler housing on the sterring box and just remove the cover and seal from the coupler if you are CAREFUL.} obviously any wiring and linkage will need to be removed.
 
That's my problem my steering column came out in two pieces. The column came out and I had about 18 inches of steering shaft still attached to the coupling. I slid that off the spline of the steering box. I'll take pictures tomorrow and post them.
 
the column is made to collapse upon impact. looks like yours did this. there is a plastic piece to reconnect the 2 shafts
 
Thanks j061093409. I wasn't sure if I was gonna have to shop for a new one. I tend to have that kinda luck. Murphys law always applies to me and anything I work on....
 
It's probably been apart at some point and the shoes where put back in wrong - they are a tight fit and hard to do at times
 
You have the super rare,fully adjustable,extendible,collapsible,fits any steering box, column. You should immediately put it on E-bay, for an outrageous price, and build a 408 with the cash.
Heh-heh
 
The factory steering coupler that Ma Mopar used is garbage I would change it over to a U joint style, this is the one my buddy put in his 68 dart, he got it from Speedyway Motors , and loves it. It is the correct spline for Chrysler too. I know some people will bash it and say its not collapsible, but it's far safer in my opinion , here is the Part # 91032273 I am ordering one for my car right now, now that you reminded me with this post!

View attachment 91032273_L_15813da8 (1).jpg


Jeff
 
I cleared up a lot of the tendency to wander (and slack in the wheel) when I rebuilt the front end of the Dart.

diymirage said:
(no usable advice, but still)

have you ever noticed in movies when people drive a car?
the car is going straight but they are constantly moving the steering wheel left to right?

yeah, they're driving a 40+ year old mopar
Click to expand...
With 40 year old bushings and recirculating ball steering mechanisms, I can believe it.

Back when we started laying down asphalt, most of the highways were two lane. That meant that cars usually rode in troughs in the asphalt made by laden trucks. Bias ply tires have a tendency to nibble. That is, a bias ply tire on a car will tend to climb out of a trough or along an uneven seam in the pavement running parallel to the direction of travel. This made a lot of us, even the R&P types, saw on the wheel at least a little bit. FWIW: A square shouldered tire tends to nibble than a round shouldered one.
 
Thank you for all the great advice. I just picked up the coupling rebuild kit, but I like the look of that u joint. Did he have to cut the shaft, or is the u joint the same size as the coupling?
 

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The u-joint is just as collapsible as he pot coupling. Which is to say it isn't. The collapsability in the later columns came from the fact that the lower section slides into the upper section as you found out. Also the special square plastic washers holding the column to the dash allow it to break away.

Yes, you need to cut the "T" pin section off the lower column rod. Also, if you go with the u-joint it should be secured onto the lower column section with a couple beefy tack welds when you get it where you want it.
 
jtkaaa07 said:
The factory steering coupler that Ma Mopar used is garbage I would change it over to a U joint style, this is the one my buddy put in his 68 dart, he got it from Speedyway Motors , and loves it. It is the correct spline for Chrysler too. I know some people will bash it and say its not collapsible, but it's far safer in my opinion , here is the Part # 91032273 I am ordering one for my car right now, now that you reminded me with this post!

View attachment 1714813209


Jeff
Click to expand...

Do you know if that will work on a steering box from a 1963 valiant?

Jake
 
mrose said:
I have around 1-2 inches of free play in my steering wheel. It seems to be coming from the coupler like device that is on the shaft around 3 inches up from the steering box. Can this be replaced or rebuilt?
Click to expand...

I know you asked about the coupler, and you've received much information in relation to it, but what makes you think the coupler is producing 1-2 inches of free play? I would be more inclined to believe your steering box is out of adjustment or worn.
 
C130 Chief said:
The u-joint is just as collapsible as he pot coupling. Which is to say it isn't. The collapsability in the later columns came from the fact that the lower section slides into the upper section as you found out. Also the special square plastic washers holding the column to the dash allow it to break away.

Yes, you need to cut the "T" pin section off the lower column rod. Also, if you go with the u-joint it should be secured onto the lower column section with a couple beefy tack welds when you get it where you want it.
Click to expand...

Well THIS is not true, sorry. In the context of the U joint we are talking about a slight bit of linear movement, which the pot type DOES do. Frankly, I've not heard of many failures of the pot type couplers. In my opinion, the disc/ rag type used on some vans, etc, and many many GM is far less reliable.
 
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