8 1/4 rear disks

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What is a 1 piece lock up or lock nut axle?
 
will do I needed something on the rear, manual disk/drum barely stops the 225 I can imagine when the 440 goes in. Also adding a booster and adj prop valve. I will take pics as I go.
Ray
 
I guess that some trucks have the lock nut that mounts the hub to the axel. One piece is the Normal that most have. Vendor was great with info but really crappy about the tracking. Been a week and a half and still do not know if it shipped. Sent him one hell of a message, wanted it for Carlisle. I can understand if he is getting it from somewhere else and there is a delay but.........
 
The deal fell through, vender kept coming up with excuses so I told them I wanted a refund.
 
Go to junkyard, find 96 and older jeep grand Cherokee with rear disc brakes. Remove all disc brake setup then clean and bolt to your 8.25 rear. It's a direct bolt on/swap.
 
That lock nut axle pic in the description looks very strange, like the nut is at about a 20 degree angle? Says its a bolt on for a 8.75 too? Rear disks wont help stopping...just saying. They are just easier to work on. 80% of braking is fronts.
 
1970Duster said:
Go to junkyard, find 96 and older jeep grand Cherokee with rear disc brakes. Remove all disc brake setup then clean and bolt to your 8.25 rear. It's a direct bolt on/swap.
Click to expand...

Thanks, did not realize that!
 
halifaxhops said:
will do I needed something on the rear, manual disk/drum barely stops the 225 I can imagine when the 440 goes in. Also adding a booster and adj prop valve. I will take pics as I go.
Ray
Click to expand...

Something is wrong with your brake system then.

I have factory Manual Disc/Drum setup on my '74 Duster and it would lock up all 4 tires and stop on a dime (with 9 cents change), at 65+mph, if you needed it to.

My '73 Duster has Manual Disc/Drum and the stopping power is even more impressive. On the '73 I have 11.75" Rotors with Floating Pin Calipers from a Charger, and a Master Cylinder for a "Power" Application instead of the original Manual application master cylinder.

I have a similar setup on my D50 (11.75" Rotors, with Floating Pin Single Piston Calipers and 10" Drums), They will lock up Four 40x17-15" Tires at 60mph and bring a 4,500 pound truck to a screeching halt in the blink of an eye.


EDIT : Not to mention, the 6-71 Blower setup on my '73 and '74 makes the 340 weigh almost as much as a 440
 
I have a rear disc setup from a Grand Cherokee and another from a Cherokee Limited. I don't know what year they are from. Do you know what's different about the 96 and up? I think the Grand Cherokee is later than 96.
 
I have to agree with a couple of the points above - you wont notice the rear disc brakes at all, and the factory 73 and up disc / drum setup are more than adequate for normal street / strip use. The engineering in some of the aftermarket disc brake conversion kits I have seen is less than desirable.
 
I have the 9" drum brakes on an 8 1/4 rear. These are the wide shoes cause the rear end is out of a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. I put the 73 Duster disc brakes on the front. I guess I'll stay with that until I run out of things to do.
 
68coupe said:
I have a rear disc setup from a Grand Cherokee and another from a Cherokee Limited. I don't know what year they are from. Do you know what's different about the 96 and up? I think the Grand Cherokee is later than 96.
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The reason why 96 and older is the spline change in the rear end itself most of the time you're also looking for a limited slip unit and better gears. 96 and older are direct swaps I'm sure the disc setup is the same but force of habit is to say 96 and older.
 
M/C bore size and wheel cyl bore size can GREATLY affect stopping power and pedal pressure.

Sounds like yours are mismatched.
 
Good call changed the master when I was doing the brakes, prob a 3/4 master (rock auto) . Just received a 1" master and power booster. Should put it in soon. changed all lines, rebuilt the calipers, new drum cylenders, proportional valve and rubber lines. That is one of the reasons the 225 is still in it to work out all the bugs. All the rubber on the car was OEM including the coolant! Suspension is now poly, I figured there would be problems! Glad I live in the middle of nowhere to work it all out before it goes on the road.
 
A bigger m/c bore will require greater pedal effort, but less travel than a small one, it is simply physics and hydraulics 101. Make sure you have the right m/c
 
It did not even come close to fitting. The vendor was a pain in the *** and had to eat shipping both ways. Sorry for the late reply, just stumbled across the thread. I ended up using the jeep Cherokee setup and anyone that says you wont notice a difference should drive this one. I did a build thread and need to find it and post a link. I have a little over 300 into the whole set up and it stops better than my Cobalt SS daily driver with slotted rotors. The only thing I need to add to the build thread is that I did end up using and adj prop valve, made a huge difference.

Found the link here it is. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=301415

Joey might be a good build thread!
 
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