No Spark.
You have to be inventive when alone. Read this carefully. Not sure you hooked your jumper up right
^^If you typed what you meant, you did this wrong. Look in the engine bay, locations change. You want to find the STARTER relay which looks like this:
The "big stud" on the relay is battery. Hook that with a clip lead from the big stud to the coil POSITIVE. What this does is to bypass all the factory 12V harness
^^It should NOT show 12V on both coil terminals. With your clip lead hooked up to coil+ or the key turned to "run" you should have "some light" at coil POS. Coil NEG should be DIM or no light at all
DISMOUNT THE ECU AND SCRAPE it clean and remount it!!!! WIGGLE the ECU connector!!! There is a screw in the middle of the connector, turn that out. WHY!! are you doing this?? Because on a Mopar ECU, when everything is hooked up "normal" and working, the COIL should be drawing current "to ground" through the ECU. IF the NEG coil terminal shows much voltage at all, it is not doing so. Either the box is not grounded, or it is BAD
You need to create a gap, either with something like a spark plug or your inline tester standby........
Using the inline tester "to ground" is easy. Just unhook the coil tower wire, and stuff the tester into the coil. Take the wire end of the coil and ground it. Something like your air filter stud should work well. You should be able to see it through the hood gap as you twist the key, or if using your clip lead on the coil (12V hotwire) you can also crank the engine by jumpering the starter relay
To do that, just use pliers or screwdriver and jumper across the two largest bare terminals..........the "big stud" and the "square" termainl
You have to be inventive when alone. Read this carefully. Not sure you hooked your jumper up right
^^If you typed what you meant, you did this wrong. Look in the engine bay, locations change. You want to find the STARTER relay which looks like this:
The "big stud" on the relay is battery. Hook that with a clip lead from the big stud to the coil POSITIVE. What this does is to bypass all the factory 12V harness
^^It should NOT show 12V on both coil terminals. With your clip lead hooked up to coil+ or the key turned to "run" you should have "some light" at coil POS. Coil NEG should be DIM or no light at all
DISMOUNT THE ECU AND SCRAPE it clean and remount it!!!! WIGGLE the ECU connector!!! There is a screw in the middle of the connector, turn that out. WHY!! are you doing this?? Because on a Mopar ECU, when everything is hooked up "normal" and working, the COIL should be drawing current "to ground" through the ECU. IF the NEG coil terminal shows much voltage at all, it is not doing so. Either the box is not grounded, or it is BAD
You need to create a gap, either with something like a spark plug or your inline tester standby........
Using the inline tester "to ground" is easy. Just unhook the coil tower wire, and stuff the tester into the coil. Take the wire end of the coil and ground it. Something like your air filter stud should work well. You should be able to see it through the hood gap as you twist the key, or if using your clip lead on the coil (12V hotwire) you can also crank the engine by jumpering the starter relay
To do that, just use pliers or screwdriver and jumper across the two largest bare terminals..........the "big stud" and the "square" termainl
