Pulled the Mess that was my Timing Chain....

On the ballast resistor: Okay, I will go grab a new one then. The only reason I was hesitant is because I was told otherwise. Well, it does cut out after around 15 seconds, but that is when I cut the fuel line. I do know how to perform am ohms test, I've got the proper meter for it. Never got to it because nobody thought much of it.

Yes, I meant volts, whoops.

I did not test across a 1/4" gap for the spark plugs, merely testing that they were firing in a pulsating order by a timing light that checks for electrical voltage. I will go and test them by the gap tomorrow.

No, I didn't mean that the distributor lands in one spot every time; I missed the important detail that we brought it up to TDC and checked that the right cylinder (either #1 or #6) was in the compression stroke, and then checked if the distrubutor rotor was in the right place. It was. No hesitation or slop when we turned over the engine by hand. Sorry about that.

Carburetor: Okay, that makes a little more sense. If there is any explanation, then at least it's not something completely random. We did try to plug it up if it helped, but didn't do any noticeable difference. Did not expect for such a drastic improvement anyways.

We didn't get to spray any cleaner like that on the carb base because we couldn't get it to run long enough to test that just yet. No vacuum test either. I will suggest that and should get one, just to rule out something else.

When I disconnected the needle and seat, no fuel leaked out. The float is a possibility, or at least one of the possibilities. What is the appropriate height for the float? I saw it once posted, but I can't find it again.

Can fuel go bad after 2 months of sitting? It's 10% ethanol.


I posted it now that I don't think it is. The original owner lived here, and the car was made in the Windsor plant in Canada (if that means anything).


EDIT: I forgot to post about the distributor cap. I will post a picture tomorrow.