Gauges Quit Working After Being Parked

Here is 'some stuff' on the early cluster

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/instrument-reg/instrument_reg.htm

http://www.chargersourceguide.com/voltagelimiter.html

http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...ge-limiter-fuel-amp-temp-gauges-66-Sport-Fury

If you google this there is lots of opinions on how to fix them DIY

https://www.google.com/search?newwi...0.6.6.0....0...1c.1.64.img..6.0.0.5bJh8dM22XU

HERE IS THE THING

the electric gauges themselves actually have TWO terminals.......one gets regulated power from the voltage limiter device and the other goes to the sender.

The EARLY cars and the RALLY clusters have the limiter built INSIDE the fuel gauge. In this case, the fuel gage has THREE terminals. Here is the DIFFERENCE between them and the external limiter clusters.

Power comes INTO the third terminal of the fuel gauge. This is switched 12V from the "key." That 12V goes THROUGH the limiter exactly as it would for an external limiter.

That output INTERNALLY feeds power to the fuel gauge AND branches off to one terminal on the "outside" which then feeds REGULATED power to the other gauge or gauges. (Some have oil pressure.)

The THIRD and last fuel gauge terminal goes to the fuel sender.

So in reality the clusters (such as yours) with the fuel gauge internal regulator work exactly the same as the external regulator / limiter. They simply "look" a bit different.

Pay attention to, and read the links. There are different ways to "fix" these. The most popular is to "get into" the fuel gauge and bend the limiter circuit contact over so it's not effective, and or cut the un-needed stuff out of there.

Then wire up an EXTERNAL limiter

The external limiter MUST be grounded. They have three terminals.......12V in, regulated power OUT, and ground