Amp meter fluctuation?

Part 2 So I suddenly remember what the guy at Ron Davis told me about checking for voltage in the coolant IMMEDIATELY after starting your car for the first time with the new aluminum radiator. Yep. I didn't follow that advice and it cost me dearly. So I bought a VOM (Volt/Ohm meter) and tested my system. With every electrical system on, headlights on high beam, heater blower on high, radio, etc I was reading 3 volts in the coolant! Yes THREE volts. I was also getting a 2-3 volt spike when the starter was engaged. In a stock cast iron engine with a brass/copper radiator it's not that much of an issue. But if there are aluminum components in the system it's a BIG issue. After a week of cleaning and upgrading grounds and cleaning the rusty clips in the fuse block I got it down to .3 volt. I was still getting a .8 volt spike when the starter was engaged but it was much better. The twitchy needle issue was still there though. I talked to Gary in between all this and he had given me many of the suggestions listed earlier in this thread. But he said one thing no one else had mentioned, the ignition switch. So I changed it out and BAM! No more twitchy needle and ZERO VOLTAGE in the coolant. All this time it was an other wise perfectly operating ignition switch. Many of the other things contributed to this problem, but the switch was the root cause. I hope this helps other people out there with this issue before they lose any expensive components like I did. Here are two very good links with knowledge and info about this problem. The first has a lot of knowledge info and the second has some great products to help fight this demon as well!!! Hope this helps!
http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/index.html
http://www.ve-labs.net/

Keyword: Electrolysis, Ammeter, Electrical system, Cooling system.