Wrap Positive Cable w/ Battery Relocation?

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BrianT

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I'm getting ready to move my battery to the trunk using this kit from Summit.

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The guy that's helping me is an electrical engineer so everything has to be done first class. He is suggesting that I run sheathing over the positive cable because it's going to be run through the interior along the driver's side floor pan. He says the vibration of the car could cause it to rub through the outer cable and that could spell catastrophe. I don't want to argue with him because he obviously knows more about this type of thing than I do, but has anyone ever heard of doing this? Is it overkill or valuable protection?
 
Whether it's overkill or valuable protection, I'd listen to him and go ahead and do it. Put it in the "chicken soup" class - what can it hurt?
If nothing else it will give you some peace of mind.

What's your concern?
Expense? Then it's cheap insurance compared to the total cost of building your car or having to replace it in case of an electrical fire.
Weight? Sheathing material can't be that heavy to effect either your mileage or quarter-mile times.

Sounds like a good idea to me and something I will do when my build gets to that stage.
Please post up what he recommends for sheathing material.
Thanks!
 


What's your concern?
Expense? Then it's cheap insurance compared to the total cost of building your car or having to replace it in case of an electrical fire.
Weight? Sheathing material can't be that heavy to effect either your mileage or quarter-mile times.

Sounds like a good idea to me and something I will do when my build gets to that stage.
Please post up what he recommends for sheathing material.
Thanks!

No real concerns other than I have the kit ready to install and he will have to order the sheathing. As soon as I find out what he wants to use, I'll post it up.

We are going to run a Ron Francis buss bar and relay box with separate relays to run my fans, horn, headlights and possible electric fuel and water pumps in future. It should look real nice mounted where the battery tray used to be.
 
I don't put anything over the cable inside the car except where it passes through a firewall or at the edge of cover panel that is under your door sill plate. I sometimes zip tie a set of cables together.

If I need to put anything on the cable, I'll split a piece of hose a zip tie it to the cable for abrasion protection.

Inspect the route for any sharp edges, IMO, that's where you need to focus attention.

Shrink tube would provide an additional layer of protection. I don't do that either except at pass through points.
 
I used common split loom for extra protection, I also made up little u-shaped metal brackets that were tack welded along the floor and wheel housing to give a place to secure with zip ties to the floor.
 

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I will be watching this thread as I have purchased the same kit. I wasnt planning on any sheathing but it cant hurt. I will be searching for wiring instfructions as well. how many wire alt will you be using? Not sure what factory was for your 67. if you can post how your going to wire every thing it would be nice to see.
Thanks Rod
 
If you wire the starter so it's hot all the time, it will be mandatory to have some sort of wiring protection. This is not the recommended method.

If you want to run the big wire inside the car, use a "Ford" type starter solenoid so the big wire will "only be hot when cranking". Keep it outside the passenger compartment if you don't want to mess with the solenoid.

On my car, I ran the big B+ wire from the battery/cut off switch to the starter in the wiring trough along the driver's side floor pan. Worked good. I still used some sheathing around the wire where it comes close to things that could rub against it but I didn't go nuts trying to insulate it. Keep it neat and use zip ties.

What type of cut off switch do you have a 2 or 4 pole?
 
This is a street car, no Ford solenoids or cut off switches will be used. The battery is being relocated solely to clean up the engine compartment and to take weight off of the front end.
 
this is a street car, no ford solenoids or cut off switches will be used. The battery is being relocated solely to clean up the engine compartment and to take weight off of the front end.

ok.
 
I've relocated batteries in many cars over the years. IMO, it's worth your peace of mind to wrap the cable. It is a "just in case thing", it's not going to cost you a lot of money now but it could cost you a lot of money later. There was an old commercial that said, "Pay me now, or pay me later". I think it applies in this situation.
 
I've relocated batteries in many cars over the years. IMO, it's worth your peace of mind to wrap the cable. It is a "just in case thing", it's not going to cost you a lot of money now but it could cost you a lot of money later. There was an old commercial that said, "Pay me now, or pay me later". I think it applies in this situation.

agree w/ crackedback.
 
Focus on the rub and pinch points and secure it every 2' or so. Also, look at the carpet bottom that covers the cable and see if it is rough and make provisions to protect from that if needed; some carpet backings are highly abrasive.

I race rally cars and the vibration and chafing there is way beyond street use. I don't enclose battery cables but am very conscientious about protecting any chafe points.
 
You say your help is an electrical engineer.
I'd use his advise because he's helping you design
and build your system and you might need his
help down the road.

My personal opinion is its probably a little overkill in your car,
but what can it hurt.
My girl works as the HR manager in a company that
makes wire looms for emergency vehicles, they leave
nothing to chance.
It's the little extra details that makes their products
superior to other manufactures.
 
I'm kinda curious about why you guys are running these heavy gauge wires through your interior? All my buddy's at the drag strip, including myself, have run the wires along the frame rail using rubber isolated clamps. IIRC, NHRA rule book says that you cannot run the wires inside the vehicle when the battery has been relocated to the trunk. I have to double check that rule, but i'm almost positive about that. sheathing on the wires wouldn't hurt though.
 
Well I looked this book back and forth and kind anything about running the wires in or out of the car. So, I say run em with the sheathing on the inside.
 
Nylon spiral wrap and Adel clamps. Best to run inside the car for protection, especially a street car with rocks and such coming off the tires.
 
I didn't use the kit, but I have that same battery box. I ran 2ga all the way back, and put split loom over the top of it, and grommeted where it went through the firewall. You also use zip ties like you own stock in them, and tape. The more still you keep it - the better you avoid it getting stripped. Also if you plan to track the car, make sure you handle your cutoff switch as well.

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Split loom, cheap and easy . Also remember if just maybe you would like to unleash that stroker at the track just for fun one day? :burnout::D you'll need a external kill switch and have to run your alternator wire to the battery side of that switch to kill electricity to the motor .
 
Passing tech at the nearest track in a street car is pretty easy. I'm not too worried about it.
 
I use "0" gauge welding cable. It has a very tough insulating cover, but I still use rubber hose at any point it passes through or near anything that may chaff it. I also solder the connectors onto the cable and double heat shrink those ends.

I also use a full length "0" gauge ground to directly to the motor and to the car chassis. The positive lead is run to a distribution point at the front of the car, where it branches off to various sub-circuits.
 
I use "0" gauge welding cable. It has a very tough insulating cover, but I still use rubber hose at any point it passes through or near anything that may chaff it. I also solder the connectors onto the cable and double heat shrink those ends.

I also use a full length "0" gauge ground to directly to the motor and to the car chassis. The positive lead is run to a distribution point at the front of the car, where it branches off to various sub-circuits.

Same here. I also used "0" gauge welding wire. Its finer strands allow for less voltage drop over the length of the wire. I also ran a "4" gauge wire from the alternator to the battery direct. Installed a Summit Racing kill switch as well.
 
I noticed a clear tube coming out the side of the box. Is that for "venting" and does it go through the trunk floor?

I have a marine battery box with a lid, but it didn't come with a hose. Should I add one? Sorry for the thread jack
 
So you run through a Ford relay so the starter cable isn't hot all the time, wires routed as required.... what do you do for the power feed for the car?

Run it up to the stock pickup point under the hood?

Relocate fuse box in to trunk?

Add additional fuse box in trunk? (And if you do that, do you run the oe fuse box from there or what?)

I ask because some cars just add accessories over stock and want to keep the factory harness.
 
Passing tech at the nearest track in a street car is pretty easy. I'm not too worried about it.

If you plan on running it at an NHRA track and they do even a decent tech inspection, you won't be running without a cutoff switch.
 
So you run through a Ford relay so the starter cable isn't hot all the time, wires routed as required.... what do you do for the power feed for the car?

Run it up to the stock pickup point under the hood?

Relocate fuse box in to trunk?

Add additional fuse box in trunk? (And if you do that, do you run the oe fuse box from there or what?)

I ask because some cars just add accessories over stock and want to keep the factory harness.

Are you asking me? If so, I'm not running a ford relay. Also, I run a Ron Francis wiring kit, with the fuse box under the dash.

If you plan on running it at an NHRA track and they do even a decent tech inspection, you won't be running without a cutoff switch.

I agree completely. I don't know about other tracks but at N.E. Dragway (NHRA) they are pretty thorough during inspection, even if it is street night. Safety first!
 
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