Slant 6 Turbo 68Dart Project

Have you talked to your machinist to confirm the price would be the same? Usually they charge by how much they cut, I'm not sure I've seen one yet that didn't (keep in mind, there aren't many machine shops round here, so my experience is limited). Another thing: Your dad had a decent point, but you also said the forged motor would be built even higher, so that nixes that. However, the larger the bore, the weaker you will make the cylinders, and in turn the block. I wouldn't set a specific bore size, just whatever is needed. What power a bigger-than-needed bore might make would be counteracted when the bore distorts and is out of round (round bores make power)

I'm not trying to shoot holes in all your plans, I'm trying to help you make them bulletproof! :D

Oh, and your swapping plan is pretty similar to mine. I swapped out my original motor (which I believe is forged, haven't been able to confirm. Engine stand is in use!) for a built cast motor. This leaves me with a forged(?) motor to build for... whatever... if I so choose. Or I may jump the gun and drop in a roller 360. Who knows.

The machinest I use is a friend of a close family friend who is basically like an uncle to me. He does cash rates at what i believe to be reasonable, he rebuilt my entire slant head, put brand new valves in it, new push rods, new springs, and gave me a set of brand new lifters, shaved the head, and tanked it - for $270 which I believed to be incredibly reasonable. I will ask him if it's the same price regardless to be sure. I don't want to cause a problem overboring, but we'll see what looks safe once the engine is out and I can get a good look. Maybe it has a huge hole through a bore or something? I don't know till I open it up. I think then would be the best time to see what to do maybe. I am still waiting on seeing the landlord. I want to get it before he forgets that he was going to accept $200 for the whole thing.