Starting to go through my wiring!

This may be long winded. 71 Demon big block. I've bought all new wiring harnesses. I personally did not want any heavy loads going thru the bulk head connector so under the dash I removed (de pinned) the black and red from the bulkhead connector. I did away with the ammeter and installed a a sun pro volt gauges guts with the ammeter face, I adjusted the volt gauge to show half scale at 12.5 volts. The black and red going to the ammeter I cut, crimped, soldered, and protected with heat shrink the two wires together just distribute the dash load better. I am running the denso 60 alternator. To feed the inside fuse panel I ran a 8guage wire from the starter solenoid fused at solenoid. Mine has electric windshield washer pump, so I bought a grommet for the foot pump and ran the heavy wire thru the hole in it and tied it into the black and red under the dash, again spliced and soldered the connection with heat shrink over it. The blue wire on the engine side feeds alternator, electronic ignition, ballast resistor and voltage regulator, this is your switched 12 volts. I used ithe existing blue at the alternator for the denso switched ignition source, I completely removed the connector for the external voltage regulator including the green wire to alternator from the harness as well as the black wire from the alternator to the bulkhead and the red (de pinned at bulk head) from the starter solenoid. There is a splice area where the blue vr wire ties in, this is where I removed the blue for the vr and again crimped soldered and heat shrinked this splice, and to be honest this splice was cheesy because it was only crimped. I ran a 6guage wire from the alternator to starter solenoid and fused it at the solenoid. I ran a sense wire from the alternator to the starter solenoid and fused it at the solenoid. I'm using a FBO ignition box which uses a full 12 volts so I jumpered the blue and brown of the ballast together, this powers ignition 1 and 2 (with the orange box you will still need the ballast). I may run a designated ground into the dash thru the washer grommet. I welded a piece of "L" angle to the bottom of my battery tray to mount my fan relays to, and also put a common ground stud in it which I ran the negative battery cable auxiliary lead to. I ran a designated ground from this stud to my ignition box and will probably mount my headlight relays to this same angle and the headlight grounds to this stud. If this all makes sense so far. The open spots in the bulkhead connector I bought some Packard 56 terminals to use for extra gauges etc so I can disconnect the connector and remove harnesses for what ever. I've got the ford contour fans on a champion radiator, the control wires are run thru the bulkhead connector as well. The output at the alternator is 14.3 volts and I have 14.3 at the battery so the wire is heavy enough to not cause a drop. All the terminals and connections were crimped and soldered. I used a factory connector(for the denso) at the alternator, I just removed the terminals that came with the connector and used the Packard 56's installed to the wires I needed and plugged back into the factory style connector which are the 12 volt switched and the sense wire.
Hope this helps you out. Here's a how to on the alternator

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=97736

This will help with ignition box
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=238870