Duster should have been a DEMON! Cranking issues!

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200winz

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Trenton New Jersey
Well it is finally assembled, registered and insured...if it would only be dependable! My 72 duster was a former drag car. It has a rear mounted battery, push button start and toggle switch ignition and fuel pump. It cranks slow or not at all. New 850 CCA battery. New cable ends to emergency shut down and from shutdown to starter relay and relay to starter. All ends soldered on. A .2 volt drop at starter relay and even less at starter! Put a jump she starts twice, third time, wuhn..wuhn...then, barely turns. Does not matter hot or cold engine. Do I need dual batteries? Jumping with my dually diesel which has 2 batteries and by 3rd crank....wuhn...wuhn..wuhn...wuhn
Engine grounded to subframe. Battery cable removed when parked, tested for draw - none, but remove anyway! I get 2.2 volts at starter engagement connection on relay, is that enough? If she don't fire by second crank attempt, jumping and waiting is the only way it will crank fast enough to light off! I am at wits end
 
I would run the battery cable directly to the starter and then an 8 gauge wire to the solenoid. I just did this yesterday and it solved my problem. Andrew
 
anyway! I get 2.2 volts at starter engagement connection on relay,



I have no idea what this (above) even means.

What are you calling "subframe?" K member? Front frame rail?

The steps basically are

1....Make sure the battery is "up" that is charged

2....Have battery load tested. This requires a device known as a "carbon pile" and is as "big as a bread box"

carbon-pile-tester.jpg



3.....Measure battery voltage during crank, RIGHT AT the battery posts

4.....Measure starter voltage between large starter stud and engine block, compare to above.

If you have less than 10.5 at starter during crank, you have a big problem.
 
Yes I meant k-member...sorry. On the starter relay there is the 12 gauge wire connection that engages the starter. The battery is reading 12.65 bolts. I will measure the starter voltage at large stud and engine block and post readings.
Thank you for your quick response.
 
The K may not be a good place. It's bolted to the main car welded assembly (unibody) and it's possible it's not that well grounded. I'd move that cable to the front frame member or other unibody
 
I'd run a ground from the battery to the engine block, 4 ga. or larger. then from the block to the body. I've had a bad starter do that also. If you have another you might want to swap it out and try that. You need a larger battery feed then 8 gauge, that is only good for 40 amps. I bet that hot lead gets very warm!
 
I would run the battery cable directly to the starter and then an 8 gauge wire to the solenoid. I just did this yesterday and it solved my problem. Andrew

This^^^ if that don't work have your starter checked. I have the same setup with one yellow top and it cranks like mad, check your timing too.
 
Replaced battery as it dropped to10 volts when cranking. Replaced lug end on cable from battery to starter relay and rerouted ground from k-framE to left framE rail. Had it out only once since these corrections were made and so-far-so-good! Now to figure why I have no power to hot side of dash light fuse! Thanks for everyone's help!
 
"Dash light fuse."

This is a bit of a trick!!!!!

That fuse ONLY has power when...............

The tail circuit fuse is good..........

The headlight switch is in the park or head position and the tail lights actually work.........

The dash dimmer is twisted "somewhat" to the left (ccw)......

The dash dimmer circuit gets power from the tail light circuit, and that fuse gets power from a tan wire coming FROM the dash dimmer circuit.
 
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