No spark and i can only get 5V at the coil.
The brown wire shows 5.6V at the connector under the dash by the steering column, firewall connector and at the ballast as well.
You MUST measure that in "start" and you MUST check both the switch side and the vehicular side of the connector
With the key in "start" that brown terminal should be "same as battery" IE whatever the battery is while cranking, and for good starting should be more than 10.5V
"New" does not mean "functional." There are plenty of "new" defective parts, and in modern chinesio times, "it's gotten worse."
HOWEVER if you have tried to start the car using a jumper to the coil + then you have other issues, OR you have BOTH issues............something wrong in the ignition, and something wrong with the "brown."
I told you this earlier. You should be able to "imagine" the small amount of harness that "is" the ignition system and get that going separately. With the coil wired hot get the ignition going FIRST.
When one of use asks you for some reading, it's important to BOTH of us that the reading is taken exactly under specified conditions. EG, if you happen to be taking the above measurement in "run," it is meaningless on the "brown."
Don't lose sight of the basics. The ECU MUST be grounded. Don't just look at it, test it. What are the coil NEG readings with power applied? This TELLS you if the coil is drawing current. What is the ECU case reading "to ground." If there is any voltage there at all it is NOT grounded
Don't discount bad connections in ANY of the connectors. You have to PROVE they are good, not just "assume."
