A883 2nd & 3rd question

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Hey AJ,

thanks for all the help with the parts modifications & the 3-4 slider, tranny is back in the car & so far the jumping out of gear seems to be resolved (2 test runs so far yesterday & no unwanted jumping is occurring im my mopar).

think from here on, its a matter of me figuring out the rest of the adjustments to the clutch & pedal.

All the best & hope you enjoy the Gold membership, attached is picture of the ride you helped me get back on the road.

Jimmy
 

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Hey AJ,

thanks for all the help with the parts modifications & the 3-4 slider, tranny is back in the car & so far the jumping out of gear seems to be resolved (2 test runs so far yesterday & no unwanted jumping is occurring im my mopar).

think from here on, its a matter of me figuring out the rest of the adjustments to the clutch & pedal.

All the best & hope you enjoy the Gold membership, attached is picture of the ride you helped me get back on the road.

Jimmy

Do you have pics before and after AJ dressed the engagement teeth points for you?

I've been practicing with dressing points back on some rusted out spare gears I have. Would like to compare.
 
Oh-Oh,busted!
I was only able to repoint the teeth on the gears he sent me.The 1-2 slider was minty. the 3-4 slider was beyond my current ability. My eyes just could not focus well enough at the cutting distance.The gears I mighta been able to do blind-folded.
So I supplied him with a minty one.
So my slider repairing days are over.
So to autoX,if you like, Id be happy to look at your work, just so long as its well lit but not washed out.
 
Ok, experimented with some hammered gears.

Tried different diameter bits and bit finishes. I have some fine polishing bits that are rubber-like impregnated with grit in them.

Is this over or under aggressive?

The tops points were really hammered on this one. Should I just keep grinding back until I get a point at the top?

Should all the points and edges be the height? Like if I have to grind one back a bunch the rest must follow?

I carried the sharpened point all the way to the root of the tooth. Is this unnecessary? The second one in the next post I did not do this.
 

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This one was not as bad and I took a less aggressive approach.

???
 

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Here's another section I was learning on.

Notice the 3rd from the top is much shorter than the others. I ground back deep enough to get a point at the top. But others didn't need to go back that far. Is that an issue?
 

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AutoX
Nice pics
Thats pretty good considering you're using the wrong tool. Ima thinking that you are using a die-grinder and a carbide bit of about 5/16 diameter. It leaves a concave point which the slider will want to dig into.That tool is also very difficult to control. Am I right? The gear in post 31 looks like it coulda been reused without any cutting at all?

-The tool you need is electric. Fairly powerful, so that you cannot stall it out. The cutter is a 1 x 1/16" grinding wheel.I cant find them anymore, so I get whatever I can x 1/16 thick, and with whatever centerhole, and a matching arbor to insert it into the electric grinder.Then I grind the grinding wheel down, against a bench-grinder wheel, to whatever size I need to do the job.I usually start with about 3/4 inch and dress it smaller, if I catch it wanting to grind adjacent teeth. So thats the tool set up.
-Next:safety.I'll be wearing eye-protection, usually a full face visor.
-First, I cut all the drive side flanks. To do this I stick my left thumb into the center hole,with the clutch teeth facing to the right.If you find yourself looking at the coast side, flip the gear around. Inspect all the teeth.They are almost always reuseable, as is.But if its been jumping out of gear under power, it will be easy to see.The points of all the teeth wil be severely beat up and the drive-side flanks will be all chipped up.They will have to be back-cut.This is done by cutting the back edge of the tooth, the edge furthest from the point, and the least worn.On first and third this is best done by sticking the tips of two fingers down over the cone-side,sticking your thumb up the other side,and tucking your arm against your side with the gear at mid chest height, and the clutch teeth facing away from you at about 45*to the right.Phew! Looking down on the clutch teeth you will be seeing all the beat up teeth on the right of it.You will drop the Cwheel down between the teeth, with the tool angled so as to cut the edge nearest you first. You will need to cut the entire flank, from bottom to top and rear to front, leaving the front untouched.The flank will end up cut at an angle of about 2 or 3 degrees, back more than the front.This will cause the tooth to lock into the slider, preventing it from getting kicked out.The flanks dont all have to match. The high ones will very quickly wear in, bringing the lower ones into play. Eventually they will all share the load again.If for some reason,this cannot be done,Trash the gear, dont waste any more time on it.
-Second, I start with the clutch teeth on the gears. I grab the gear in my left hand, and kinda cup it, and with the clutch teeth facing away from me, and my thumb resting on the thrust surface.Then I raise my hand , elbow down,until the gear is mid-chest height.You must have a firm grip on that gear, because that hand will be doing some of the steering.
So I'm kinda right handed. I take the hand-grinder in my right hand.Mine has a long narrow neck(the only kind to have) which allows me to get right close to the cutting wheel, and use the motor end as a counter balance and a motion-damper. Then I put my right thumb on the drive teeth, and pivot the grinding wheel down to the bottom of a tooth on its ramp to the left of the point, without touching the tooth.When the cutting wheel reaches that position, its ready to begin.I pivot my hand on that thumb in a clockwise motion, to bring the cutting wheel into contact with the bottom of the ramp, parallel to its original line(45*),and in the same motion, I drop my elbow to bring the cutting wheel up the ramp and right off the end.Its all done in one sweeping motion. As you are doing this,you must be aware of where the Cwheel is at all times, so that it doesnt cut an adjacent tooth. You must also be watching to be sure the right side of the wheel is not taking any meat off the opposing ramp.I use a lot of pressure to cut at the bottom unworn part of the tooth, and ending with very little pressure coming off the end of the ramp.I am usually able to clean up each ramp with 2 or 3 passes. I do all the left side ramps this way.Then I swap hands and repeat the motions on the right side ramps. After all the ramps are cut this way, I swap the grinder back into my right hand and do any touch-ups, to center the spine(point) between the ramps, and to make the general shapes of all the teeth match. Then I ever so lightly drag the Cwheel over the point from bottom to top,parallel to the M/S centerline,to dull the point,and shape it into an arc.
-Third, I back-cut the coast side flanks, to prevent the gear from kicking out the shifter during deceleration.There are usually just 6 of those. I cut them back and at a reverse angle leaving the leading edge, next to the ramps alone.This is similar to the cutting of the drive flanks.I do this on all gears without exception.Six new teeth will come on line and the cut ones will be out of play.
-So thats the hard work done. Now the tips;
A) Dont spend a lot of time trying to get all the points the same. Its impossible, and not necessary.If the brass is good and bite on the cones,the slider will slip over the highest ones, and never even notice the lower ones.Eventually as the brass gets tired, the slider will knock off the high points, and new ones will come on line.
B) Dont try and get the back-cutting all the same either.
C) If you knick an adjacent flank, dont worry about it. Unless you knick every single one,deeply.
D) check the driving teeth for high spots created during handling(dropping and such), and swipe them off.
E) polish the cones. I do this in a lathe.I use 100g cloth tape and using a lathe file for a backer, just wipe the shine off. I suggest you use something finer, until you get the hang of it; like 200ish.I usually bias the polish such that the brass bites harder on the upshift side. This requires you to lay the sandpaper on the rotating cone,press down and slide it off to the right in one motion.This creates a screw.And the cone will screw itself into the brass and synchronize almost instantly. Downshifting will be slightly lazier tho. First and third are spun opposite to second and the input.
F) the thrust surfaces. I usually drag them over 400ish paper,just to knock any burrs off.
G) Race mods. I have a few of those.
ok its getting late, thats it for today. Tomorrow we'll do sliders
Tomorrow has come and gone.I've been busy. I'll try to continue on the weekend.It takes me a long time to write this stuff.
 
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