Replacing Leaf Springs

PoisonDart74 said
Yup. All stock front leaf eye. The LCA are about 2 1/4" off the bump-stops, I jacked them up because I was having issues with it bottoming out, we have some bumpy damn roads around here..

It's just about dead flat level, possibly a little high in the front. I need to cycle the suspension because it's been jacked up.. Looking forward to bigger bars soon.

Thanks for the post, lookin' good!

I hope it helps the OP and gets him thinking about spring rate relationships, and not just tossing something in there willy-nilly and end up disappointed after he spends bucks.

It's really about matching components. Spring rates, shocks, sway bars, the whole smash. The rear spring choice is more forgiving than some of the others, I think as long as you're in the 110-142 lb range things are workable for most folks, range is probably a little narrower if you're after serious handling and matching things with a rear bar.

In the front I only have about a 1 3/8" from the LCA to the frame. With the poly button style bumpstop I have about 1" of travel before I get into the bump stop. I even removed the tab on the bumpstop mount, so it's completely flat. But the 1.12" torsion bars i run have a 300 lb/in wheel rate, the JS 1" bars are probably a little under 200 lb/in. I hit the bumpstops occasionally if I drop a wheel in a pothole, but 99% of the time it doesn't come up. I also run a Helwig front bar, so that's in addition to the 300 lb/in wheel rate. I have a set of QA1 lower control arms to install, that will add almost an extra 1" of available travel. I might even go a little lower. ;)