Recommendation Wanted: Valve Cover Gaskets

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Detroit Iron

Detroit Iron

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I love my vintage Commando valve covers, but they do leak a little. I'd like a recommendation for valve cover gaskets for problem valve covers. I think I remember Mr. Gasket made a good steel core gasket.

If you have a recommendation, please also provide the part number. Thanks for the input!
 

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$45 for a pair does seem a little much, but steel core elastomer gaskets are the poop...if they leak, you have other problems. (warped covers/missing mating surface)
 
vs13395r fel pro, black rubber, good gaskets, last long time, $12. Detroit-what gaskets have u used?
 
I use cork or black felpro type gaskets, coat them with black RTV and let it get a little tacky before installing the valve covers. Apply masking tape to all of the cylinder head contact surface...then install the valve covers. Let sit overnite, Remove the valve covers and remove the tape from the heads. The rtv stays on the gaskets, wont stick to the masking tape as it sets up, and helps provide a leak proof seal. Works for me.
 
femtnmax said:
I use cork or black felpro type gaskets, coat them with black RTV and let it get a little tacky before installing the valve covers. Apply masking tape to all of the cylinder head contact surface...then install the valve covers. Let sit overnite, Remove the valve covers and remove the tape from the heads. The rtv stays on the gaskets, wont stick to the masking tape as it sets up, and helps provide a leak proof seal. Works for me.
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interesting, I had nothing but problems w/ the $45 moroso gaskets. they split length ways . started w/ mild torque and kept tightening a little each time trying to stop the leaking, till they split. of course I`ve never had very many moroso parts or stuff that were worth a dam !!
 
Marcohotrod said:
vs13395r fel pro, black rubber, good gaskets, last long time, $12. Detroit-what gaskets have u used?
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Same Felpro vulcanized rubber used here, I didn't have the part number. Check the cover flanges. If there are bent areas where someone used a screw driver to pry them off before, correct that. Use a ball peen hammer to dimple the covers upward at the bolt holes. If they sit right and aren't over tightened they wont leak.
Downside is damaging the paint. I imagine there is someone who spent the coins to renew that textured finish only to find they needed to mar it with tools.
 
Marcohotrod said:
vs13395r fel pro, black rubber, good gaskets, last long time, $12. Detroit-what gaskets have u used?
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I use the Felpro black rubber stuff. I've used them quite a bit over the years, but need something a little more forgiving. The valve covers are less than perfect, but still pretty good shape. I get some leakage in a couple spots. Especially when the oil gets hot and thin.

I'm going to try the Moroso set.
 
I've restored a lot of Commando valve covers over the years and suspect that your leak may be due instead to a common problem; they've been overtightened and the gasket rails are no longer flat.

Pull the offending leaker and take a look down the long sides. They're usually pretty tweaked after 45 years of loving prior owners. :-D Straighten any bent edges and flatten the mounting points as needed. These are a few of the typical issues.

View attachment June 11, 2012 - Before (6) - Copy.jpg

Note the bulge near the bolt hole on the left valve cover ... the "Leaning Tower of Pisa" stovepipe was also mildy entertaining, as is the factory's plastic dip on the wire harness retainer.

View attachment 034 - Copy.jpg

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With a little attention they clean up pretty nice. These (and the last two pics above) belong to our member 65DartCharger aka Ulf.

View attachment 049 - Copy.jpg

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View attachment Post-assembly pic.jpg

(Installed photo courtesy of Ulf)
 
Dont forget the cylinder head surface it its an LA engine. These can be tweaked and sanded(easier when the head is on the work bench)to seal better than as cast from the factory. Look at the head rim with a magnifying glass and you may be amazed any gasket seals.
 
CudaChick1968 said:
I've restored a lot of Commando valve covers over the years and suspect that your leak may be due instead to a common problem; they've been overtightened and the gasket rails are no longer flat.

Pull the offending leaker and take a look down the long sides. They're usually pretty tweaked after 45 years of loving prior owners. :-D Straighten any bent edges and flatten the mounting points as needed. These are a few of the typical issues.

View attachment 1714829632

Note the bulge near the bolt hole on the left valve cover ... the "Leaning Tower of Pisa" stovepipe was also mildy entertaining, as is the factory's plastic dip on the wire harness retainer.

View attachment 1714829633

View attachment 1714829634

View attachment 1714829635

With a little attention they clean up pretty nice. These (and the last two pics above) belong to our member 65DartCharger aka Ulf.

View attachment 1714829636

View attachment 1714829638

View attachment 1714829639

View attachment 1714829637

(Installed photo courtesy of Ulf)
Click to expand...

Are those PINK shop towels? LOL
 
CudaChick1968 said:
I've restored a lot of Commando valve covers over the years and suspect that your leak may be due instead to a common problem; they've been overtightened and the gasket rails are no longer flat.

Pull the offending leaker and take a look down the long sides. They're usually pretty tweaked after 45 years of loving prior owners. :-D Straighten any bent edges and flatten the mounting points as needed. These are a few of the typical issues.

View attachment 1714829632

Note the bulge near the bolt hole on the left valve cover ... the "Leaning Tower of Pisa" stovepipe was also mildy entertaining, as is the factory's plastic dip on the wire harness retainer.

View attachment 1714829633

View attachment 1714829634

View attachment 1714829635

With a little attention they clean up pretty nice. These (and the last two pics above) belong to our member 65DartCharger aka Ulf.

View attachment 1714829636

View attachment 1714829638

View attachment 1714829639

View attachment 1714829637

(Installed photo courtesy of Ulf)
Click to expand...





this is the answer,he should know
 
fratzog lover said:
Dont forget the cylinder head surface it its an LA engine. These can be tweaked and sanded(easier when the head is on the work bench)to seal better than as cast from the factory. Look at the head rim with a magnifying glass and you may be amazed any gasket seals.
Click to expand...

I second that for my 1965 383. The valve covers have always leaked at the rear, dripping oil on the starter and exhaust manifold (for that smell of burnt rubber in the morning). I went whole hog w/ cast alum Holley covers and pricey silicone gaskets. The later were stiffer than normal cork & rubber, which made things worse. I finally noticed the cast surface wasn't flat and dropped down ~1/8" at the rear. I tried to seal there by first bolting down tighter at the rear, then force it down in front and ended up breaking the rear tab off an alum cover (trashing it). Next time I have the heads off I will mill a flat surface (like Magnum heads). Also, a ridge in the casting seems to backup oil like a dam, causing it to pool near the gasket surface. I tried removing in-car (many stuffed rags to catch debris), but will do better on the bench someday. Likely the same issues for LA heads, though haven't noticed my 65 273 leak yet.
 
Bad Sport said:
Hopefully not you he who? :D
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Amen to that Sporty!!

ocdart said:
Somebody trying to yodel?
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Too funny Ken! Oh hey, a bit O/T please thank Mike and the Inland Mopars club for the latest sponsor plaque! It's beautiful as they always are and will make a fine new addition to the wall above my desk. (IF we ever finish the remodel that is ... subfloor is replaced, walls are painted, but no flooring yet. No rest for the wicked. :-D ) It's truly an honor supporting Mopars In May every year.
 
I had a set that I just ran a belt sander over the lower rail, evening out the rough casting surface. Prior to that no brand gasket sealed well. Took ten minutes, cured the oil drip.
 
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