RustyRatRod's Guide To Hot Rod Bliss

I like the 383 engine as a base to start with. Better compression and no real draw backs from the heads with smaller valves, which will make a RB's performance suffer. While a host of aluminum parts lighten up the engine very nicely, it is a bit pricey to do. One part at a time over time make it easier.

The best thing about the 383 is a few simple parts and it can be a good motivating power plant. Once you can get the cam, converter & rear gear combo sorted out to compliment each other for a well rounded package, it'll be sweet. Probably not setting a house on fire, but, a well motivated car should result. Your carb doesn't even have to be big. As long as you didn't go crazy somewhere, a used 600 AFB or Holley 1850 will do very well on a 383 or 400.

Hunt your classifieds!

I am about ready to start messing around with the 400 Duster. The low compression is the biggest hurtful point of the B block mill.

So far, I have installed the '78, 400/727 in the '71 with the Schumaucher swap mounts.
My good luck with parts and what I added on is;

Cheap open air cleaner on top of a $100 electric choke TQ.
A friend gave me a B engine Holley Street Dominator.
(Sweeeeet! But not any better than stock on a stock engine.)
Used B body headers. Check BBD.com for instructions.
Used Hooker Aero chamber mufflers @ 2-1/2 ending at the axle.
Used Chrome box

I sprung for some weight lightening parts which could be skipped for cheapness. Aluminum water pump and housing.
I also purchased a Summit aluminum radiator since the car did not have one. This you may very well want to do since the /6 radiator will not be up to par for cooling.
I'll grab a cam, lifter and spring kit later.

The big draw back to a big block in a A body that was a sixer is probably your suspension. And that depends on how you drive it. The Duster I have has no sway bars. 4 wheel manual drums @ 9 inch. Caution is the word of the day here folks.
The other thing is the 7-1/4 rear. You will probably want to upgrade that to a cost effective 8-1/4 at the min. I was lucky enough to score a reasonably priced 8-3/4 with 10 inch drums complete. Another friend gave me his rear rims and tires as thanks for helping him on his 383 build. (275/60/15's) used S/S springs give rise to the rear with cheap Comp Enginneering shocks on all 4 corners. After a few bucks to shorten the driveshaft and a cheap B&M shifter, the basic job was completed.

The car should be inspected by weeks end. (I hope!)
And at the track soon. (Again, I hope!)
With a camshaft change there after. (Still hoping.....)

The engine mods are one thing, the rest is another story when totaled.