slotted and or drilled rotors
Just out of curiosity, did the 11" rotors not stop the vehicle from 150 mph? I'm guessing there is a caliper and pad upgrade with the bigger rotor install, also.
That's a really nasty crack on the 13" rotor right on the vane. Have you tried the cryogenic rotors?
When racing hard, the expensive rotors last a bit longer, but cost a lot more, and don't stop any faster. I didn't notice a difference with these drilled and slotted rotors compared to the plain ones. Cooling ducts didn't do much, either. Pads made a huge difference. The Hawk Blue ones are outstanding. They wore out at 32 hours, and we only had Schmuck Auto Parts pads as a backup. The driver I was replacing told me "Don't go into the first turn any faster than the speed you want to die at."
These are on an '86 Mustang, but I don't think that matters here. They started cracking from the holes first, but as you can see, they also cracked right in the middle of the swept area. This rotor has 36 hours on it, and the other side was worse. The rust is just from sitting over Winter.
This started with slots.
Stepping up from 10-7/8" to 13" rotors was what we needed. They slow the car down from 156MPH hour after hour, with no brake fade at all, and they don't need slots or holes to do it.
They will still crack, though, but every car out there has cracked rotors after a race.
Just out of curiosity, did the 11" rotors not stop the vehicle from 150 mph? I'm guessing there is a caliper and pad upgrade with the bigger rotor install, also.
That's a really nasty crack on the 13" rotor right on the vane. Have you tried the cryogenic rotors?
