225 Slant Six Crank but Won't Start (Fuel but No Spark, Dist. Rotor turns)

I'm sure it's probably out of time. The problem with slants (look at underside of dist) is that the advance / retard range is pretty limited. There's a slot on the engine end of the clamp and a slot on the dist. end. "You might" have enough range between the two

So here's the thing.............

No1 fires every OTHER time the timing marks come up. your job is to determine the CORRECT rotation. This is also a bit more difficult with a slant

Remove the no1 plug. Devise a way to stick your finger in, or something else to "plug" the hole and feel for compression. A compression gauge also works.

Now teach yourself how to bump the engine over with the starter relay. It has two exposed large terminals. Just jumper those with a screwdriver. Make certain the engine is in neutral (or park)

Bump the engine until you feel compression. You may have to "go round" a couple of times. When you just start to feel compression, stop and "look for" the timing marks. (NOTE You will not have to rotate the engine very far at this point) Gently bump the engine around until "the marks" come up to "where you want" the timing. Say, 5* BTDC. After this do not move the engine.

Now loosen the dist. so you can move it in the bracket. Move the dist body CW until you are sure the points are CLOSED. Clip a voltmeter or test light to the NEG coil terminal. Turn the key to "run."

The light should NOT light, or the voltmeter should read pretty low.

Now slowly rotate the distributor body CCW (left) SLOWLY until the light just lights, or the voltmeter "comes up" to 12V

AT THAT POINT snug down the distributor

NOW gently put the cap on, and "notice" where the rotor is "coming to" which wire tower. THIS IS where no1 should go regardless of "where it was."

Now install the rest of the wires going CW (right) 1-5-3-6-2-4

Now start the engine