Torque Boxes and Subframe Connectors

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1969VADart

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To stiffen up the frame on my car after all the crazy roof work, I am going to add some torque boxes and subframe connectors. Does anyone have any recommendations on what I need or want in terms of the torque boxes? I found these torque boxes on eBay, but I wasn't certain if this was the best option or not. And just out of curiosity, which of these is the front and which is the rear?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290883822596?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I would also appreciate any advice or recommendations about what to use for subframe connectors. If you have any of these things that you are interested in selling, please let me know. Thanks.
 
Torque boxes were the factories substitute for subframe connectors. Does about the same "tie it all together" just not in a straight line. If you're willing to install a good solid tubular weld in subframe connector you wont need the torque boxes.
 
I would check and see if AMD makes the torque boxes.

a search will turn up many opinions on subframe connectors. depends what your use will be. me, I just build drivers, and I make my own. I have used heavy square or rectangular tubing. 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 or 2 x 3. I don't incorporate it into the floor pan.
 
Torque boxes were the factories substitute for subframe connectors. Does about the same "tie it all together" just not in a straight line. If you're willing to install a good solid tubular weld in subframe connector you wont need the torque boxes.

So I could install torque boxes or subframe connectors, but I don't necessarily need both?

I would check and see if AMD makes the torque boxes.

a search will turn up many opinions on subframe connectors. depends what your use will be. me, I just build drivers, and I make my own. I have used heavy square or rectangular tubing. 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 or 2 x 3. I don't incorporate it into the floor pan.

Car is mainly just a street car. Not a hot rod. I definitely need to reinforce the frame to accommodate for all the roof work we did.

Thanks.
 
Same guy selling the torque boxes makes the subframe connectors, US Cartool. Has his own website at uscartool.com. I'd use the subframe connectors if I had to pick just one. Seems like it sould tie the front and back of the car together better to reduce flex and sag. Could be dead wrong, but you can now literally jack up ther entire side of the car from just the front or the back. My 2 cents, overpriced as it may be.
 
Which model Dart , if any came with factory torque boxes ?
 
I bought the the USCARTOOL and am happy with them.
I first bought the MP ties from Jegs, they looked spindley and not
up to the job, so I took them back.
 
I just installed subframe connectors on the 72 Duster yesterday. Two pieces of 2x3x.125 tubing and about 4 hours later. Check out bigblock darts page, pretty much the same thing, just don't have to cut through the floor pans on the Dusters. $35 in tubing
 
I first bought the MP ties from Jegs, they looked spindley and not
up to the job, so I took them back.

I welded in the MP connectors and I can almost pick up three wheels with a floor jack. Big improvement whichever connectors you decide on.
 
my connectors cost about $25 to make.. the OP was looking at buying a set. so why not buy an entire kit for not much more then he was spending on just connectors.

if i put connectors on jamies dart i'm using the uscartool laser cut ones. they look a lot cleaner to me then the square tube did.
 
However you decide to go, use both the connectors and the boxes. Consider tying the front frame rails too. US Cartool does have a nice chassis stiffening kit, but it is more than doing it yourself. I have their kit in my A-body and it transformed the car. The car did come with front and rear torque boxes along with the other factory mods that come with a convertible.

I found my front shock towers were almost completely broken loose at the spot welds to the inner fenderwell. I welded them solidly to the inner fenderwells and also welded up my K-member.
 

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Got the Mopar bolt-on ones on my '70 duster but they're weld on nothing wrong with them at all:burnout::burnout::burnout:
 
verts came with torque boxes. I don't remember if my 67 383 cuda had them, but doubt it. the 440-6 and hemi E and B bodies came with torque boxes ( unless the factory forgot them), yes, it happened.

many people have said ma mopar should have spent the extra $1.50 back then and added the sub frame connectors, and I agree! really helps the car, e specially 40-50 years later when the metal is thinner and everything fatigued!????
 
BB Abodys were supposed to get torque boxes. My '69 383 GTS had them but I know of a 383 '69 Cuda that didn't.
 
However you decide to go, use both the connectors and the boxes. Consider tying the front frame rails too. US Cartool does have a nice chassis stiffening kit, but it is more than doing it yourself. I have their kit in my A-body and it transformed the car. The car did come with front and rear torque boxes along with the other factory mods that come with a convertible.

I found my front shock towers were almost completely broken loose at the spot welds to the inner fenderwell. I welded them solidly to the inner fenderwells and also welded up my K-member.

Good thing that didn't happen at Willow Springs. Last time I saw your car you were running the injected Magnum motor. Any recent changes?
 
My 340 Swinger with a 4 speed has them front and rear.
 
If it's any help to you heres some pics
of the MP and Cartool connectors.
 

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I made a set of frame connectors from 1.5" x 3" x.120" wall steel. I originally wanted to do 2x3x.120, but I decided I wanted to stay away from cutting the floor and I wanted them to fit flush at the rear rail.

It's hard to tell in these pics, but I boxed in the end that was cut to fit over the rear frame rails in addition to adding the extra plates to cover more surface area on the rear rails. I also reinforced the torsion bar anchors when I was welding in the connectors.

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I also added torque boxes to the car, front and rear.

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And in this picture you can see the "J" bars I added to stiffen the front, as well as the tie in between the "j" bar and top of the shock mount. You can also see the corner of the tubular radiator support brace I added behind the stock radiator support.

IMG_1915_zps32183594.jpg
 
Built these babies out of three-quarter inch conduit. Had to dogleg the driver side to clear the parking brake cable. Hit it with some green paint so it won't rust until I get around to painting everything.
 

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