Dougs
- Thread starter solracmopar
- Start date
-
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
Yes its a 4 speed. I can't give you a honest answer to that because I have a Lakewood bellhousing and the Z bar had already been altered before I bought the car. It was altered so the Hooker headers would fit I assume. I did however had to grind off a 1/4" of the bottom of the Z bar in order for it to clear the header when the clutch is pushed in. I assume it will be the same way with stock four speed and bell but I could be wrong.
plefe
OldSchool
I'm sure I missed the obvious somewhere here, but I'm a new user of Dougs. Oh boy. I made the mistake of trusting someone who came to us on this site to sell out their Mopar stuff. I bought a set of Dougs for a small block that supposedly had not been modified. The driver's side front tube is cut and fits inside the tube, guessing so adjustnents can be made. Do you weld this after fitment or strap it so it doesn't leak? Gasket base brace is cut there as well. Is this all normal or did I get ripped off? My experience with Cheverolet and Fords when it came to header application was pretty simple, but now I find myself back to my first love for Mopars and mighty small blocks. Before I pull the 318 out of my '69 Dart I need to decide if it's worth the fight before I drop in my home grown big block stroker. But that may be some time later in the future.
shadango
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2009
- Messages
- 814
- Reaction score
- 4
Do you mean the leader pipe is actually cut?
When I bought my Dougs headers everything was done.
So unless Dougs offers this sort of thing for a specific app, sure seems like you got a set that has been modified....
:wack:
When I bought my Dougs headers everything was done.
So unless Dougs offers this sort of thing for a specific app, sure seems like you got a set that has been modified....
:wack:
I just installed them and they seem close in that area. I would just mark the tube where it is close with a marker. Take the header off the car. While placing an 8" long piece of hardwood on the inside of the tube just take and put a large c-clamp across the tube. The side where the wood is placed will spread the load and not collapse while the side close to the power steering pump will just bend in that small amount you are looking for. Probably put a cloth on the pipe first to not hurt the ceramic coating. All you are doing is making a little dimple which will actually look like it was built that way. I would make a hardwood half dowel for the clamp to squeeze against and make a nice looking dimple type bend.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
I know this is an old thread and I wish I would have known about it earlier but I didn't and just wanted to say I wasted $535 on a set of doug's that had the exact same issue. Their BS way out of warrantying them is since I modified them (dinged in #1 and 3 tubes) to try and make them work they couldn't do anything but give me a discount on a new set. Screw Pertronix! If they were made right I would have never dinged them in
stroked340
Well-Known Member
Thats a reason you buy TTI'S..a friend has Dougs on his dart they don't fit nearly as good as my tti's on my duster..he wishes he bought tti's.
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
No need to put headers on your car if your going to flatten the tubes. Just run manifolds. Leave the hammer in the toolbox next time.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
While I agree flattening tubes isn't a good thing to do, if you do it in moderation to gain a little clearance I can't see it hurts that much. If you saw mine in person you'd see it's only flattened down about 1/4". TTI's have a spot on them that's flattened down by the factory at least that much for clearance. In the case of mine it appeared that's all it was going to take to make them fit until I went to install the torsion bars.
I have a set of Dougs 453's on my 340. They fit great, and have better ground clearance than the TTI's by about 3/8". I did need to put a couple of small dimples on the drivers side tube for the torsion bar, but I also run 1.12" torsion bars. If I had stock bars they would have fit fine. And if anyone thinks that a set of stock manifolds outflows a set of headers with a couple of clearance dimples, well, I want some of what you're smoking, 'cause it's great stuff.
A quick search here will show you there are plenty of people that have had to dimple their TTI's too. The factory tolerances on these cars aren't that great. Paying an extra couple hundred bucks for TTI's doesn't guarantee you won't have to dent them, it just means you payed an extra couple hundred bucks. Some cars won't need the headers dimpled, some will, regardless of whether they're TTI's or Doug's. I'm sure the Doug's fit some cars better than TTI's, just like I'm sure TTI's will fit some cars better than the Doug's. Just the name of the game with 70's factory tolerances. My EL5 GT had rubbed a hole in the crossover exhaust tube with the steering link, and everything on that car was factory, bone-stock.
A quick search here will show you there are plenty of people that have had to dimple their TTI's too. The factory tolerances on these cars aren't that great. Paying an extra couple hundred bucks for TTI's doesn't guarantee you won't have to dent them, it just means you payed an extra couple hundred bucks. Some cars won't need the headers dimpled, some will, regardless of whether they're TTI's or Doug's. I'm sure the Doug's fit some cars better than TTI's, just like I'm sure TTI's will fit some cars better than the Doug's. Just the name of the game with 70's factory tolerances. My EL5 GT had rubbed a hole in the crossover exhaust tube with the steering link, and everything on that car was factory, bone-stock.
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Just another thought on the Dougs or anybody's headers for that fact. I have installed Edelbrock aluminum heads on my 340. Want to get real messed up in the head. Nobody ever told me that the Edelbrock heads actually protrude out in front of the block by about an extra inch?? Now where do the Dougs bent to fit perfect headers sit in relationship to everything else??? I finally figured out why my Dougs headers were such a pain to install, but now I am getting what custom builds really encompass. Add an aftermarker A/C compressor and then try and line up pulleys ect ect ect. It is a chore working through all this stuff. But if you have Edelbrock heads, make sure you are aware of the dougs fitment regarding them????
This is really true of all aftermarket parts. Once you start mixing and matching aftermarket stuff you really wander into unknown territory. Each part may have been produced to work with the original stuff, but they sure aren't all intended to work with each other. Some will and some won't. And even little stuff makes a difference, I know for a fact that my engine doesn't sit in the same place with the replacement poly inserts in my spool mounts as it did when the original rubber was in there.
The headers always end up being a headache because they depend on everything. The engine mount locations and type of mounts, K-frame alignment, oil pan, steering box, torsion bars, steering column mounts, shift linkage etc, all come into play. All of those parts have independent tolerances and adjustments, and that's just from the factory. Replace the engine mounts, add an aftermarket oil pan, increase the size of the torsion bars, install aftermarket heads, steering box etc and things get entertaining. Not to mention just the factory assembly tolerances on these cars, or the tolerances on the production of the headers themselves. Not like they all leave the factory identical to each other, even if they're all built on the same jig by the same person (and they aren't). Sure, they're close, but when you start routing things through with an 1/8" of clearance you're going to run into problems, because the factory never spec'd any of the body parts that tight. Even the suspension points had that much tolerance or more depending on the part.
The headers always end up being a headache because they depend on everything. The engine mount locations and type of mounts, K-frame alignment, oil pan, steering box, torsion bars, steering column mounts, shift linkage etc, all come into play. All of those parts have independent tolerances and adjustments, and that's just from the factory. Replace the engine mounts, add an aftermarket oil pan, increase the size of the torsion bars, install aftermarket heads, steering box etc and things get entertaining. Not to mention just the factory assembly tolerances on these cars, or the tolerances on the production of the headers themselves. Not like they all leave the factory identical to each other, even if they're all built on the same jig by the same person (and they aren't). Sure, they're close, but when you start routing things through with an 1/8" of clearance you're going to run into problems, because the factory never spec'd any of the body parts that tight. Even the suspension points had that much tolerance or more depending on the part.
Agreed. I found that out after much agony. Last few cars I did were stock rebuilds. I wanted to dabble in some mods with the Demon. What an education. My steering grease box had to be cut off and had to have a round aftermarket swivel joint enstalled to clear the headers. Cost me 205.00 just for that one part. But in the end, I am hoping that it will all work out. I know that the shumacher engine strut will keep the engine from rocking into all these close tolerances. But the true test is yet to come. Can't wait......340/416 stroker......
stroked340
Well-Known Member
Yet another reason to buy TTI'S..i run Edelbrocks on my '70 duster no fitiment problems what so ever..
I checked the TTI headers and I was not all that fond of having that #7 tube be in two pieces. Maybe that was an error on my part.
stroked340
Well-Known Member
Tube slips right together had them on 2 different cars never leaked...
I would love to see them some time. Are you close by Saugus? Maybe we can hook up sometime? I would love to compare the spaces in and around torsion bars, starter, power steering box and steering column grease cup.
stroked340
Well-Known Member
I live in Watertown i just put a new exhaust system on it too..
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
I wondered about that too, mainly how well it would seal up. I actually expected it to leak at least a little but I've put 500 miles on it and hear no leak at all nor do I see any sign of burned exhaust coming out of the splice. Since it wraps around the torsion bar it has to be a 2 piece design
stroked340. send me a PM with your contact info and maybe you would not mind exchanging some ideas. I have yet to start my 416. I am still hooking up the fun stuff. Electrical. MSD box, tach, gauges. I was actually looking for somebody around here that would maybe help me fire this up for break in. Did you do your own 340. I was going to take it up the highway to a speed shop with a dyno, but the man passed away and nobody left there knows how to use the dyno. My luck.....
71Scamper
Mopar runs thru my veins!
WOW!!! Mass guys with mopars that live near me and have the same Doug's header issue as me at the same time lol!
Im in the middle of reassembling my 71 Scamp with a 340, X head, Dougs headers, and my number one tube is touching the box in the middle of the turn going around the box.
Im in the middle of reassembling my 71 Scamp with a 340, X head, Dougs headers, and my number one tube is touching the box in the middle of the turn going around the box.
stroked340
Well-Known Member
Shim pack from Schumacher. Must have for headers. IMO
http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/ShimsAccessories.html
http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/ShimsAccessories.html
-
