Minimum electric fuel pump pressure

Hey, hi there. Yeah that sync looks pretty close. And yes the low idle is odd.
1)Are you running a PCV system? The 218 cam will want it.
2)Have you verified the damper TDC mark?
3)Are the metering rods stuck down at idle, and are they staying down.
4)Is that spacer a 4-hole, or at least devided?
5)What are your day-time temps there?
The AVS carbs usually like a bit more idle mixture, try turning them out more, perhaps as much as 2.5 turns out. Set them for best quality of idle.
-If TDC is true, and the PCV is functioning, and there are NO vacuum leaks,then we need the engine to tell us if its rich or lean. The way to do that is to pass a shop-rag over the primaries, without choking it to a stall. But first, stuff the rag in the secondary side; it should make little-to-no difference in idle speed.Yank it back out! Back to the primaries;If the rpm goes up, its getting too much air. If the rpm goes down, it wants more air.
If it wants more air, you crack the secondary open a bit and retest.
If it wants less air, that really means;Why? Go back and make absolutely sure its not drawing air from somewhere it shouldnt be.When thats done and no source is found, then you will have to prove that the fuel level is on spec.
-The electric pump may be too much.With the engine warmed up and running, shut the pump off. Wait a minute or three. If the idle speed rises before it falls,then the fuel level is too high. If the idle speed drops continuously to a stall, the fuel level is too low.If the idle remains the same for about a half a minute before dropping, then its pretty close.This assumes the mixture screws are optimized between 1.5 and 2.5 or so.
-Oh yeah, I'm assuming that when you are setting the timing that the vacuum advance system is defeated, and that later, you are connecting it to the spark-port.
-Do all the above tests with a stable idle speed of 650 to 700, using timing to get it, not primary cracking.
Ok so, have at her.

Thanks for the wake-up call.