1969 Dart Street/Strip (Re)Build

younggun2.0 said
Would jetting up 2 sizes on secondaries be a quick fix? You think 14.0 is way lean on top end? Sounds like need to up secondary and go down on primary.

Sorry for hijack but I am only 3/4 turn out on all 4 air bleeds Would the primary jet cause rich idle?

Oh yeah, 14.0 is way lean up top. I would fix that before you run at the track. Primary jet won't have anything to do with idle. It will only affect cruise and WOT. Are you running a Holley? If so, there's a lot of info out there on how to get them right. I can send you info if you want. Moving the idle circuit air bleeds from the top of the metering block to the bottom and get those bleed sizes down would be a place to start for idle. You should be around 1.5 turns out on your idle screws. On mine, I've done that and blocked one emulsion hole in the metering block and changed the air bleeds in the main body. Will probably end up blocking 2 of the emulsion holes since I'm still on the fat side at cruise, but it's a lot better. The aim is to keep the front main jets as small as possible so you're not fat as heck at cruise and then getting the right power valve for WOT operation aiming at 13.0-13.5. For tuning purposes, I've blocked the PVCR's and plugged the PV as well so it's nothing but low end operation. Without a power valve and having small jetting in the front mains, it will lean out like crazy so no WOT when doing this. Once that is worked out, then the PV is the last thing to get that WOT correct. THEN you'll move to the secondaries if needed. I haven't got that far yet. So far every little tweak is helping idle and cruise quality. I was always double footing it at stop lights and now I'm not even having to touch the gas hardly at all to keep it idling.