Zac_F71's 71 Demon

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Hey i8 didnt know you had a under drive crank pully. I have a march underdrive water pump pully you can have. i am not going to use it.
 
Zac it's coming along nicely. Good work on that dash. Had the same problem with that stupid rag joint during install.
 
Thanks I got offered a pair of old Hedman headers from a friend for $75, so I'm going to get them this Saturday after work.. got the engine harness mostly done, going to work on getting the motor/trans in the car Saturday night/ Sunday so crossing my fingers they won't need as much massaging as the other pair I have..
 
Well a bit of a hiatus but I'm back, was saving for headers - found local to me a pair of 1 7/8" TTi's for $400! Going out in a few minutes to start the endeavor of installing them!

 
Sorry guys I have lost most of my motivation for the car, being I didn't make the deadline I wanted to - haven't touched the car in a month - I have some days off work here I'm gonna try to get out in the garage and get some stuff done on it..

No I'm not giving up and selling it, just need a break after thrashing on it for a month straight everyday and not getting anywhere.. Will report back this Sunday if I have done anything..
 
Well got a little done only to have to undo it haha

The headers are to long and I do not have enough clearance under the car to get them in from under the car - at least on the driver side..

The starter, was an ordeal but was a simple fix - the bottom bolt hole must be 1/2-20 thread, I chased it with a 1/2-13 tap and well cut new threads LOL luckily I had a spare ARP 1/2''-13 bolt so it worked out great after removing the factory power lug jumper/extension and drilling the bottom hole in the starter to 1/2"

Got the bellhousing bolts in, got 1 converter bolt in, and couldn't turn the motor by hand SO -

I need to remove all that I did do- lift the motor 1/2 way out and set the headers in on top, set the starter on the left header, and lower the motor in place -and cross my fingers it works haha - it worked with the Hedman's but they didn't clear the steering at all

If not I'm going to have to do it the factory way.. sadly drop the K member/steering, attach everything and lift it back up in the car..

Going to try the above new way today..







 
Greatish news! haha the passenger side fits great no denting at all, I shimmed up the motor mounts and it clears the steering so much it could go down an little, so I'm going to do that..

I tried a big block mount on the driver side as the oil pump does not clear the K member perch - and does with the thick mount - the BB mount worked except it wouldn't let the motor slide back far enough for the header to line up SO out it came, I found some left over front strut spacers from my old 83 Mustang and used those as shims in the small block mounts that came with the kit.. (as pictured below)

The driver side just fits, as is that is, SO I again I have to undo everything and take it out, I marked the header in the 4 spots needed clearanced, shim the DS mount up a little over an 1/8", and reinstall everything haha. I am taking a break and uploading pics I took so far.. it's warm in the garage haha

I feel confident saying they will be in by Wednesday night, permanently.. not sure I'll have anything else done but they will be in haha























 
Why are those mounts so skinny? Wouldn't the normal 1&1/2" thick ones work in there without all the spacers?:banghead:
 
I hope your gonna strap the motor in, because that bigblock will twist those motor mounts off.
 
They might fit now.. I'll check into putting them in today.. they didn't when I last tried both - trans hit the firewall (I have a pair of thick big block mounts here)- I could only fit the driver side one in..

The whole setup, motor, and headers are installed currently and nothing hits, the mounts that come in the Trans-Dapt swap mount kits are small block mounts that sit horizontally instead of vertically.. just like the Schumachers - the big block mounts I have are much much softer than the one's that came in the kit..

I just looked on Schumacher's site- the articles they list for installs - show the same mounts I have which is the small block mount I just have 1 7/8" headers which I pounded for clearance and would hit if I took the spacers out..
 
Big block mounts are 1/8" to tall - like I said trans will hit the tunnel - it's VERY close as is.. I'll look into either a torque strap on each side or different spacers for the mounts
 
They don't squish any when installed? I used bb mounts in my 70 dart when I put a 383 in there, (early 80's), before any body made aftermarket crap for these swaps. :D
 
Ya after a discussion on Facebook I put the big block mounts in, the driver side is lower, and the passenger side is higher, the opposite of what it needs to be but I'm tired of messing with it so I'm leaving it- it all clears still except the pass header collector will likely rub on the torsion bar a little.. I'll add a torque strap here as the mounts are VERY soft..

Got a few things done yesterday, swapped the motor mount isolators out, fixed the rear leaf hanger threads (in the frame), modded and mounted the rad, figured out the rad hoses, figured out the electric fans..

So today I'm going to attempt to rebuild the drum brakes in the rear, and finish the wiring..

Need a good diagram of the rear drums, and need to find a diagram to relay the head lights..
 
Well at the end of my mini vacation here - got the driver side rear brake rebuilt completely- got the passenger side torn down and found the park brake bracket return spring (oval shaped spring) broken and I'm not running 30 minutes just to order it when I go there tomorrow for work SO I will order it then.. and finish it Fridayish if the springs come in.

I called it a day after that as I'm tired from working on the car for 3 days, 12 hours+ a day - plus today for 6 hours haha

I'll start the wiring tomorrow after work, wrapping the engine harness, and research relaying the head lights
 
Very nice work Zac! You have quite the patience. You will get her whipped and she will be screaming in no time. I have a 72 Demon 318 4 spd. Cant wait to dig into mine like you are yours. Keep up the great work!!
 
4geardemon said:
Very nice work Zac! You have quite the patience. You will get her whipped and she will be screaming in no time. I have a 72 Demon 318 4 spd. Cant wait to dig into mine like you are yours. Keep up the great work!!
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Thanks man! If you don't have any pics up of yours, start a build thread for it!
 
I don't have any pics up. Cant seem to figure that side of the site/computer/phone out. Haha. Mine is up and running. Just did a cam swap(284/484), 360 heads, and headers on the 318 this last month. Nothing fancy, still stock rotating, so no compression and lack of low end. The 4 speed helps and it screams really good for what it is. This winter I hope to gain the funds for a fuel cell and re plumb the system, rebuild the front suspension, and SS springs and rear shocks. Fingers crossed!
 
4geardemon said:
I don't have any pics up. Cant seem to figure that side of the site/computer/phone out. Haha. Mine is up and running. Just did a cam swap(284/484), 360 heads, and headers on the 318 this last month. Nothing fancy, still stock rotating, so no compression and lack of low end. The 4 speed helps and it screams really good for what it is. This winter I hope to gain the funds for a fuel cell and re plumb the system, rebuild the front suspension, and SS springs and rear shocks. Fingers crossed!
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I use www.photobucket.com to post pics on here..

Just upload them, then highlight the pic, copy the IMG url and paste it on here..

My .02 - just get a new oem fuel system that's what I did a fuel cell is a waste plus you'd need a different fuel gauge as your factory one wouldn't read correct.. there is a guy selling new full fuel tank kits on eBay for $200 shipped - he's in MN as well
 
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