Rear Springs - Which Ones Should I Buy?

-
D

DodgeDart1971

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2015
Messages
54
Reaction score
3
Location
Chicago
Dear A Bodies community,

I'm new here and know next to nothing about cars (though just bought "Auto Repair for Dummies"). I bought a 1971 Dodge Dart 2ish years ago and it's been an extremely rough and expensive ride so far. Now I've been told I need new leaf springs. The rear of the car has been feeling super heavy and frequently scrapes the road when I run over bumps and potholes (I live in Chiraq). Which springs should I buy? I've heard the Mopar ones are "junk". The mechanic estimated it would cost $800 to replace them. *groan* is he ripping me off or is that reasonable? I'm a small, young woman (which zero knowhow) so I'm often taken advantage of.

Thanks so much!
 
You can get a set of springs from here:

http://www.springsnthings.com/leaf-spring.htm

Talk to Laura, you can even use the chat feature when she is there, she usually is right there when they are open.

I would just use stock replacement if you aren't doing any performance mods.

And yes, 800 is high IMO.

Welcome to the site.
 
Bad Sport said:
You can get a set of springs from here:

http://www.springsnthings.com/leaf-spring.htm

Talk to Laura, you can even use the chat feature when she is there, she usually is right there when they are open.

I would just use stock replacement if you aren't doing any performance mods.

And yes, 800 is high IMO.

Welcome to the site.
Click to expand...




thats where a got mine,no complaints.stock,1 or 2" over stock are also options
 
Fire tour mechanic and learn to do it yourself. Get your muscles flexing and your hands greasy as heck and don't worry about screwing it up! Just pay attention! Take pictures before you wrench.

That price is bending you and your wife over at the same time!

I second Spring & Things. A little more pricey than other places, BUT, I am so never going back to another place after dealing with them. Also, do yourself a favor and purchase new shocks, "U" bolts and nuts, front hangers if yours are rusted badly, rear shackles and bushings.

Do everything new and you will NOT regret it one bit.
maybe even a can of black paint for the rear once it becomes separate and easy to paint.
(Might as well right?)
 
Well consensus seems to be Springs & Things. Thank you Rumblefish for your suggestions. I don't have a jack so can't get under the car at the moment but I'll work up to it. This time around I think I'll buy the parts and pay close attention. Maybe the mechanic will let me watch.
 
DodgeDart1971 said:
Well consensus seems to be Springs & Things. Thank you Rumblefish for your suggestions. I don't have a jack so can't get under the car at the moment but I'll work up to it. This time around I think I'll buy the parts and pay close attention. Maybe the mechanic will let me watch.
Click to expand...

Well, by the time you pay a mechanic you could buy the jack. :D
 
Poster said she is a small girl...this job could be difficult for her.
Shop around...maybe find someone on this forum near you for help or guidance
in finding a local to help who would treat you fairly.
definitely go with new springs..good luck and welcome
 
Springs N Things gets my vote.. there are others.. They get the product tio you quick and are knowledgeable too!
 
That price seems high, but almost any price seems high to me as I do 90% of my maintenance for myself.

From reading your other posts, it appears that you want to learn to do things on your car for yourself. While that is very admirable, you need to obtain or gain access to the tools you need to accomplish such tasks. Spring replacement is a very easy task if you have hand tools, a jack, and jack stands.

IR333 mentioned that you are a small girl; I believe Rani is a small female as well and I haven't read a post where anything stops her from accomplishing her goals. Keep in mind, you can always get even difficult hardware removed if you have the right leverage. For example, a jack handle can be slipped over a 1/2" breaker bar handle for more leverage; either it will break the nut loose or break the bolt so you can replace the hardware.

Your plans for the car should determine which springs to go with. For example, if you plan to race the car, you may want to consider SS springs. If it's a street only car, stock or HD springs by almost any company should meet your needs.

Good luck with your project and welcome to the site.
 
I'd suggest that you survey a few other shops in the area, get a good cross section of prices.

For an experienced mechanic this should be a 3~4+/- hr job.

I just changed my springs on a similar car. Only difference was mine is a Nevada car, yours is an Illinois car. EVERYTHING on the underside of your car will be corroded or rusted if it has seen a winter in Illinois. You will need an impact wrench, and possibly a torch to apply heat to break a lot of the fasteners loose. Some of them may even break whiole trying to loosen or tighten them which could require an extractor (like mine did on the rear shackle mount) This will be a pretty complicated process, although not impossible, without the right tools. So if this is your primary mode of transportation, I'd suggest it be turned over to a shop who is equipped with items to fix the unexpected.

Have you consider a leaf spring or suspension shop in Chicago, rather than a general mechanic?
 
Brad4406 said:
From reading your other posts, it appears that you want to learn to do things on your car for yourself. While that is very admirable, you need to obtain or gain access to the tools you need to accomplish such tasks. Spring replacement is a very easy task if you have hand tools, a jack, and jack stands.

IR333 mentioned that you are a small girl; I believe Raine is a small female as well and I haven't read a post where anything stops her from accomplishing her goals. Keep in mind, you can always get even difficult hardware removed if you have the right leverage. For example, a jack handled can be slipped over a 1/2" breaker bar handle for more leverage; either it will break the nut loose or break the bolt so you can replace the hardware.

Your plans for the car should determine which springs to go with. For example, if you plan to race the car, you may want to consider SS springs. If it's a street only car, stock or HD springs by almost any company should meet your needs.

Good luck with your project and welcome to the site.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brad! I do want to easy into some basic maintenance and simple repair work. I have no tools however, so I'm stuck with information-gathering at the moment.

I'm going to buy the springs from S&Things. I don't want to race the car but I do want a little lift. I think that's possible if I ask? Also I have air shocks but they seem to be leaking badly. When I tried to fill them up recently the rear lifted and then like a burst balloon it came wheezing back down again. Is this a common problem? And is it just a matter of a tube somewhere or will they have to be replaced in entirety?

Thanks!
 
ir3333 said:
Poster said she is a small girl...this job could be difficult for her.
Shop around...maybe find someone on this forum near you for help or guidance
in finding a local to help who would treat you fairly.
definitely go with new springs..good luck and welcome
Click to expand...

That's good advice! Thanks!
 
DodgeDart1971 said:
Thanks Brad! I do want to easy into some basic maintenance and simple repair work. I have no tools however, so I'm stuck with information-gathering at the moment.

I'm going to buy the springs from S&Things. I don't want to race the car but I do want a little lift. I think that's possible if I ask? Also I have air shocks but they seem to be leaking badly. When I tried to fill them up recently the rear lifted and then like a burst balloon it came wheezing back down again. Is this a common problem? And is it just a matter of a tube somewhere or will they have to be replaced in entirety?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

You're welcome. All of us have been in that no tools position at one time. What I did when I was your age was to wait for Craftsman to put their tool sets on sale and then purchased them. If you can get a quality 200-250 piece set for less than a dollar for each tool, you are doing well as it will contain most of the hand tools you'll need for almost any job.

Once you replace the springs, please replace the shocks as well, but with gas or hydraulic shocks. Air shocks are a quick fix for worn out leaf springs and can actually damage the car. They put too much pressure on the upper shock mounts and can cause them to tear out.
 
DodgeDart1971 said:
Thanks Brad! I do want to easy into some basic maintenance and simple repair work. I have no tools however, so I'm stuck with information-gathering at the moment.

I'm going to buy the springs from S&Things. I don't want to race the car but I do want a little lift. I think that's possible if I ask? Also I have air shocks but they seem to be leaking badly. When I tried to fill them up recently the rear lifted and then like a burst balloon it came wheezing back down again. Is this a common problem? And is it just a matter of a tube somewhere or will they have to be replaced in entirety?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you want some lift, get the +1 or the +2 depending on what you want. Laura can give you great specifics.

Lose the air shocks, get the new springs in and some decent shocks.

Air shocks can damage the upper shock mount ie; rip one right out of the sheet metal if it's a bit weak in that area. Someone put them on as a bandaid fix.
 
Thanks Brad and Bruce for your replies! Very helpful! Will get rid of the air shocks and ask about installing new hydraulic shocks, if it isn't excessively pricy. :D
 
Well, you gotta have shocks. It's just a cruiser so a set of shocks shouldn't cost more than 50 bucks.
 
A pair of new leafsprings will raise the rear end of the car right back up to stock height.
IMO there's no need to 'extra' 1 or 2" raised leafsprings. This might make the car look silly and doesn't improve the ride-quality at all.

If you have zero tools and wrenching experience at the moment, one of best advice is perhaps to try and find some local friends who are into the older cars and hang out with them to watch and learn.

Post some pics of the car showing its current stance.
 
There is likely extra labor and parts involved.
May have to cut the u-bolts. ..and of course replace them.
New shocks...plus installation.

Old cars seldom are just remove and replace.

Jeff
 
Welcome DodgeDart1971 !

Lol, once again A Mopar has chosen the Human.
---girl,boy,young,old, no matter :D

BBM said:
If you have zero tools and wrenching experience at the moment, one of best advice is perhaps to try and find some local friends who are into the older cars and hang out with them to watch and learn.
Click to expand...

Agreed.
Chicago is replete with Quality car clubs/groups seek one out.

P.s,DodgeDart1971
Kudos, RESEARCH is the primary 'tool' in any build .
P.s,s.
BBM said:
Post some pics of the car showing its current stance.
Click to expand...
 
The possibility of finding a local spring shop was a good suggestion. There are a handful of spring manufacturers in the US and a local shop will be a retailer for one or more. This will save on shipping. Triangle Spring is one and Stanley Parts out of Harrisburg Pa is another. Stanley has many application specific springs for - just like Chrysler did originally. You can contact them for a seller/installer near you.

Or if you have to, these folks will ship them (from Allentown Pa)
http://www.stengelbros.net/Dodge-Lancer-Dart-and-Swinger-Leaf-Springs_c_469.html

Leaf and coil springs do eventually lose some spring, usually 70-100k miles especially if abused by drag racing or overloading. I do not recommend increasing rear ride hieght or spring rate over what the car came with unless there is specific reason to do so. Doing so can make the car tail happy and this will show up at the worst possible situation, such as downhill on a curve in the rain. If you carrying extra weight, then the extra initial hieght makes sense. If you want a stiffer, more sporty suspension, then also stiffen the front up by adding anti-sway bar (if not one there already) and possibly larger torsion bars.

My guess is 2-4 hours of shop time depending on how rusty and difficult it is. As MrJLR mentioned, parts cost includes the little things. Shop time around here ranges from 55 to over 100 an hour depending on where you go and type of operation.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top