318 and 833 swap into 72 sedan

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Turk

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I recently posted about doing a complete motor and tranny swap for my 72 Val sedan, and I finally have all the pieces of the puzzle that I need but just need a few questions answered before I get it all together. I purchased a 318 out of an 84 d150 it has a carter thermoquad 4bbl on it and hopefully along with a towing cam for that little extra torque. The truck was automatic and I need to know if it's necessary and how much I would have to cut the input shaft of the tranny and also if a pilot bushing/or bearing would be better for me. The last and finally piece I am in need of is the driveshaft.. I will be running the 7 1/4 rear end due to being on a paper thin budget at this point and would just like to know if anyone could give me a measurement for the shaft itself and if that rear end would hold up to a little heavy driving or if I should drive like a grandma until I can afford a bigger rear. And as far as the stock 225 harness goes will it all be a plug and play or is it going to need a little persuasion? Sorry for being all over the place but that should be all I got, this car is going to be driven nearly everyday and I would like it on the road asap so I can have one less thing to eat at my money. Thank you for your input in advanced.
 
Ya all over the place ! 7 1/4 + 4 speed = drive like grandma. An 8 1/4 is cheap and fine for daily driver and some occasional fun. I've heard of people cutting off a little bit (like 3/4 of an inch) off the output shaft but I don't think I would. Most wires should work - some longer some shorter.
 
Whether or not you have to cut the input shaft is going to depend on the crankshaft in your new engine. If you have it out already have a look at the back end of the crankshaft and see if it has a deep bore to accept the input. Personally I wouldn't cut it unless you have to, and I would use one of the new style roller bearing pilot bearings that fit the large diameter (torque converter register) on the back of the crank. I have used them a couple times before, they are reasonably cheap from the Chrysler dealer and work great. You may have to lengthen a few wires on the harness but it will work fine.
 
I agree about the 7 1/4, be Careful! If you are going from a 904 automatic to a proper a body 4 speed the old driveshaft should work but you will likely have to change the slip yoke to the larger diameter one, although some 4 speeds did use the smaller 904 style one.
 
I agree about the 7 1/4, be Careful! If you are going from a 904 automatic to a proper a body 4 speed the old driveshaft should work but you will likely have to change the slip yoke to the larger diameter one, although some 4 speeds did use the smaller 904 style one.

What do you mean by proper a body 4spd?
 
He probably means an 833 that came out of an A or F body and not from say, a B-body. Shifter mount location would be in a different place and I think an A-body trans is shorter overall. One more thing, a later 318 is most likely an externally balanced engine and you must use a flywheel to match or you will get bad vibrations.
 
A pickup 833 is going to be long shaft, same as B/E body. You really want an A body 833 which is shorter, has the shifter mount in a "better place" and is same length as a 904. B/E/ pickup/ van 833 is long shaft, same as a 727

The problem is not the shaft length, nor the mount. The problem is the shifter mount. If you search, around the WWW there is a diagram to build an adapter plate to use B/E 833 in an A. I don't think, however, this works under a "stock floor." Could be wrong.
 
A pickup 833 is going to be long shaft, same as B/E body. You really want an A body 833 which is shorter, has the shifter mount in a "better place" and is same length as a 904. B/E/ pickup/ van 833 is long shaft, same as a 727

The problem is not the shaft length, nor the mount. The problem is the shifter mount. If you search, around the WWW there is a diagram to build an adapter plate to use B/E 833 in an A. I don't think, however, this works under a "stock floor." Could be wrong.

After searching around for a little while I know for sure I have the "proper" a body 833. Back to the motor now, would anyone recommend running an electric fan instead of a clutch fan or since I will most likely stick with my sock / rad run both an electric and clutch fan? I have to change most of the pulleys on the front on the motor anyways because the truck was an ac truck and it had the heavy duty alternator with two belt grooves could anyone recommend where to find the new single groove pulleys online?
 
I don't think, however, this works under a "stock floor." Could be wrong.

It fits under the stock floor for the most part, the only interference comes from the forward shifter mount hitting the top of the cross member, either the mount needs one of the bosses trimmed off or the cross member needs a little dent for clearance. No major surgery required.
 
do you guys think it's possible to run my / rad with the 318 or will it not keep the motor cool enough? And anyone have opinions on heddman or hooker racing headers and how low they sit?
 
I'd stick with a stock fan set up. How wide and what is the condition of the existing radiator? You will need an a833/727 yoke for the drive shaft. Is your car a 3 speed now?

If you are driving even moderately bad roads, over speed bumps, odd/steep incline/decline driveways then avoid all headers accept TTI and Doug's.
 
I'd stick with a stock fan set up. How wide and what is the condition of the existing radiator? You will need an a833/727 yoke for the drive shaft. Is your car a 3 speed now?

If you are driving even moderately bad roads, over speed bumps, odd/steep incline/decline driveways then avoid all headers accept TTI and Doug's.

It's a 19" rad it's in good shape still. And it's a 3spd auto and have you had experience with other headers?
 
Would anyone have any input on what I should cut the input shaft and slip yoke with if I have to cut them?
 
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