72 489 case axle removal help!

Pleeeeeeease do NOT put something in there and start beating the s*#t out of it.
If it is an open , 2 pinion(cone)suregrip,or 4 pinion(plate)suregrip,the thrust transfer
button would have to be in there.Otherwise you're just beating the crap out of the
spider shaft doing who knows what to it and the carrier.Even with the thrust button in
there, it will only let you "drive" the axle so far B4 butting up against said shaft.
Can you not see down in there?If corrosion is the only culprit,put the thing up on
end and fill the damn thing with something to dissolve it.A molasses bath solution
would be cheap and will turn the rust into a gray sludge,leave it for the week and
check it come the weekend.
A friend had the shortened C-body axles from moser in his '67 GT,which had a 340
and 4spd.,AND an old pair of cheater slicks.The non-rehardened ends twisted at the
side gear/SG clutch interface,shearing off the dr. side completely,unfortunately only
twisting the pass. side.With the splines in the gear mis-aligned with the clutch spline
it was impossible to pull out,using a slide hammer flange adapter and a 30lb. bar-
bell plate,the two of us managed to scoot the car AND stands about a foot B4 we
decided it wasn't happenin'.Well, you can guess it was time for the gas wrench,
cut a window in the back of the housing right behind the carrier brg.,then cut the
axle shaft in half. Good times,:wack:,needless to say I only recommend that
axle swap for street tired automatic's after that. Good Luck!:coffee2: