Barney-style 83/4 build

-

KramerSwinger70

70 Dart Swinger360
Joined
Sep 17, 2009
Messages
984
Reaction score
13
Location
Rohnert Park, CA
So I will soon be building an 83/4 for my 70 Dart. I got an abody rear but it's still got the sbp axels and I have no clue what the diff is, other than being 90% sure it's an open unit.

For now the diff will be left alone, I bought this rear from a member about 1.5 years ago who told me it just needed some oil and it's ready to roll.

Where do I get axles for lbp? What else am I goin to need for the build? What would be your best guess at the gear ratio of a 71 abody 83/4? What u joints and other misc things do I need?

Side question, I'm swapping up from a /6 to a 360 with RMS Suspension. Is it better to shorten a driveshaft or just get a new one?
Thanks!
 
So I will soon be building an 83/4 for my 70 Dart. I got an abody rear but it's still got the sbp axels and I have no clue what the diff is, other than being 90% sure it's an open unit.

For now the diff will be left alone, I bought this rear from a member about 1.5 years ago who told me it just needed some oil and it's ready to roll.

Where do I get axles for lbp? What else am I goin to need for the build? What would be your best guess at the gear ratio of a 71 abody 83/4? What u joints and other misc things do I need?

Side question, I'm swapping up from a /6 to a 360 with RMS Suspension. Is it better to shorten a driveshaft or just get a new one?
Thanks!

Rear diff work, I like Doctor Diff.. He's honest, may cost 20-30 more up front.. You get an honest response up front( price competitive, he is...)

As for driveshaft:,...How much horsepower /trans /gear ratio,.. Here is it gets nasty.. PURE SLICKS, DRAG RADIALS / STREET ,OR PURE STRIP...??? Did that,to really get your attention (& save your money,in the long term..) Sorry.. It's a need to know answer.. Make sure ,you are safe..?
 
Is gonna be a street car, daily driver. Haven't built the engine/ trans yet but not making anything crazy, probably gonna end up with around 300hp. I ask about the driveshaft because strange engineering sells brand new for like $450 and I assume shortening and balancing an old one would cost a few hundred
 
Is gonna be a street car, daily driver. Haven't built the engine/ trans yet but not making anything crazy, probably gonna end up with around 300hp. I ask about the driveshaft because strange engineering sells brand new for like $450 and I assume shortening and balancing an old one would cost a few hundred

last time I had one shortened and rebalanced it cost me $85
the same place has also build me brand new ones for about $250

if you have small yokes all around now and the 360 and 8 3/4 both have large yokes then the difference in price between a regular U joint and a conversion U joint might almost make up the difference between having the stock driveshaft redone, and having a whole new one build
 
I don't have a clue what ujoints I have right now. The engine and trans was out of a 77 Córdoba from what I was told and the rear was from a 71 dart I believe. For driveshafts I have the one currently in the car, which is a /6, and an extra that I think is from the same Córdoba but have no way of knowing
 
gotcha

it would be easy enough to measure, the small yoke (its called a 7260) is 2 1/8 in between the ears and has a 1.078 diameter cap on it
the larger yoke (7290) is 2 5/8 between the ears and has a 1.126 diameter cap
 
Does the size of the yoke really matter for a street car? Like I said, I don't really plan on makin this a monster, just a nice daily-able car. Is it worth the money to change to larger yokes?

I know next to nothing about drivetrain, so anything from the transmission back, I need to know basically all the technical stuff. All I know for sure is that 3.55 is probably the hearing in gunning for down the road cuz it gives good response and decent mpg (yes I am factoring mpg into this build, sorry!)
 
my 8 3/4 rear end has a stock 7260 yoke on it
most of them don't, though

not sure what that tells you ;)
 
-
Back
Top