Del Help! Cuda not Charging

My Barracuda doesn't seem to be charging correctly. It's a 1967. I just got it about four months ago, it has electronic ignition a later (squareback) alternator. Their does seem to be a spliced wire that i took a picture of I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I have only gone on a few short trips with the car since I got it. Then realized it was running off of battery. I charged the battery this morning and made sure I had good ground with VR. Is their a way to check the alternator or do I have to take it to the parts store to have it checked. Thanks, in advance for any advice guys!

OK someone has converted your car to the 70/ later alternator / regulator

I tend to separate the system into blocks

The charging output circuit, IE the charge wire, bulkhead connector ammeter if still in the circuit

The field wireing

Alternator good or bad

Regulator good or bad.

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For a first "quick check" and BECAUSE you have an adapted system, you need to discover which alternator field wire is +12 ignition, and which is the VR

So unplug the VR connector, and turn the key to "run." Unplug both field wires and check for voltage. One will be 12V hook that one back up. Does not matter which field terminal is which on the alternator.

Now take a clip lead and ground the remaining field terminal. Start and run, look for evidence of charging, and post back

Thanks, Del. Just a quick question. Do I leave the Voltage Regulator unhooked while I do the ground test?, Also do I just ground the field anywhere? Body of car,etc....I would have to plug it back in woldn't I? In order for car to run. SORRY for dumb questions.

You are bypassing the regulator. Reason I had you unplug is to ID which field wire is which. So it really doesn't matter for this test.

Let me continue

If it charges in the first test, above, next,

"Rig" a way to jumper across the VR harness connector terminals. Use machine screws, whatever will fit the connector

Now disconnect the first field wire you had connected, and connect the one you had hanging, again, grounding the remaining field terminal

This is actually a repeat of the first test, but using a different part of the wiring harness.

If this shows a good charge.......

Scrape and clean around the VR and make darn sure it's grounded. "Wiggle" the VR connector. If it will not charge replace the VR.

Okay, I did the test and neither one of the wires going into the fields are 12v. See the blue wire that is exposed on the top of the harness. Their is my 12v wire. Do I need to re-wire and have the blue and green wire going to my fields just like my VR?

You have found it, sounds like. This IS WITH the key in "run" right?

Something must have broken / disconnected.

The blue VR wire and one (blue) field wire are "ignition run" Sounds like this is your trouble. Sounds like you need to untape the harness up around the ballast resistor and see what they did. Maybe they just twisted wires together "in there"

The green field wire only goes on place.......from the remaining field connection to the green on the VR.

Make SURE the VR is grounded

Yes, I had the car in the run position, It does not matter which field the 12V goes to does it? I have already scrapped the inner fender wall to asure a good ground for the VR.

R4Sedan said:

Yes, I had the car in the run position, It does not matter which field the 12V goes to does it? I have already scrapped the inner fender wall to asure a good ground for the VR.

Click to expand...

No the terminals on the alternator are interchangeable.

Here by the way is a simplified diagram

Essentially you tap off the "ign run" at the top of the ballast resistor. This feeds direct to one field terminal, and to the VR IGN terminal.

The green F wire from the VR goes to the remaining alternator field terminal

ok, I had some time this morning.I fixed my broken wires. When I start her up know the gauge inside the car reads how it should. Initial start up the multi meter reads abouts 13.5 volts. Then as it gets warmer it gets up around 15 to 15.5. I don't know if my gauge is off. It's a cheap HF or if I have something else going on. I think it is suppose to read about 14.5.Do I need to let it get up to normal operating temp before I check it?

You might want to double check your meter, even if you only "find a friend" with a multimeter

If the meter is OK, then now you are lkely seeing what I've written on here "lots." "Voltage drop."

If the VR is not perfectly grounded to the battery NEG, there is voltage drop in the ground circuit

If the VR IGN (blue) terminal is not within a couple of tenths of a volt of the battery positive, there is voltage drop in the hot side of the circuit

SO................you need to check that.

You need to hook your meter up to "the closest" you can get to the VR. This can be difficult, but the easiest access is often the 12V IGN wire feeding the alternator field. Clip one lead of your meter to that

Clip the other probe to battery + Turn the key to "run" with engine stopped.

You are hoping for a very low reading, the lower the better. Anything more than .3V ( 3/10 of one volt) is too much, and indicates a poor connection in the circuit path from the battery to the VR

This is most likely the bulkhead connector, the ignition switch connector, or the switch itself. More rare can be ammeter connections or the ammeter. Rarest of all is a failure of the "welded splice" in the black ammeter wire under the dash.

And, if you have re-did splices under the hood, might be a problem there.

Make sure the VR connector is OK. wiggle it and feel for "tight" Inspect it inside for corrosion. Work it in /out to "scrub" the terminals clean

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Next check the ground. Run the engine "fast idle" to simulate "low cruise." With engine running, stab one prob onto the top of the battery NEG post. Stab the other probe into the VR mounting flange. Make sure you get through paint, rust, etc. Once again, the lower the reading, the better, Zero is perfect. Any reading, say, .2V or more, means you need to improve grounding between battery / engine/ and body.