Instrument Cluster

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Dizzydean

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So what is the easiest way to get the cluster out of a 67 dart without donating skin and blood. I have the wheel off and the colum unbolted, the two connectors and the brake light. The wiring harness is holding everything I believe. Sure is hard to see back there. I can feel the circuit strips peeled off so Im sure thats next after I get the unit out. Appreciate any painless help with this. Thanks. Dean
 
Did you get the "third bolt?" on the column? Same size as the nuts under the column, it's a bracket further down the column, "up into" a bracket. Maybe I mis--understood, is the column droped down?

You have to unhook the harness connectors, one one each end of the cluster. And the speed cable. Then "hinge" the cluster out, and down, with the face facing down. The bottom of the speedo "hooks" over the edge of the dash frame

Once you get it out a little bit, you'll have to unbolt the ammeter nuts.
 
I have all the column bolts out and the connectors on both ends and the spedo undone but it feels like a wiring roll or taped bunch is attached to the back-I think its on a clip-and preventing me from getting the unit to tip forward. Is there a trick to getting the clip off. I cant see it from the back theres a bracket blocking my view its all by feel right now.
 
Don't know if this will help but when I did this on my dart I removed the fuse box after removing negative cable from battery. The harness is also held by a spring clip on top of the speedometer.
 
I have a '67 Dart myself, and yeah it can be a PITA to get the cluster out.
If you haven't done so already, you might want to tape off the dash around the cluster...it's pretty easy to scratch it. Also, be careful with the lamp sockets...equally easy to catch one on the top of the opening and break it off. If you do break one, NAPA carries replacements.
 
F the guy who designed these dashes, and Thier mounting!
 
Heywodja I am in TOTAL agreement with you. That said mission accomplished :cheers: What a freekin nightmare not to mention bits of me left behind. Gloves do come in handy. So what I thought was the copper circuit was 2 strips of black tape over the turn signals. Any idea why. Ill post pics later.
 
So I originally wanted to check this because the fuel and temp gauges arent working so I thought something was broken on the board, now I dont know what to check. Possibly the regulator? Also where does the cap connection go on this. Thanks for everyones help.
 

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On the three slots for the IVR, the cap sticks into the middle pin, which is switched 12V coming in. "Some stuff."

Check and maybe even solder the connector pins. they are riveted and can be loose.

On my car, those IVR socket spring fingers were not making positive contact with the PC board. Solder jumpers across between

Also, on mine, at least a couple of the gauge stud nuts were loose. Loosen / tighten them a few times to scrub the board clean, and tighten them up

Loosen / tighten the board(s) mounting screws a couple of times for same reason. Hook a pigtail wire to a ground point on the cluster. This would be any of those screws, or the cap mounting screw. Leave some slack, and then bolt the pigtail to the column support or dash frame

The reason there are extra wires on mine, here, is because I abandoned the original connectors, and soldered pigtails to the board, and ran off to "Molex" connectors

attachment.php


I got my replacement (solid state) IVR from RTE but they may be out of business

Mine after I got done.. Too cheap to buy repop PC boards LMAO

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970520372&postcount=6
 
I am very knowledgeable about instrument panels in some A Bodies with Rally Dash Boards (like my 69 Barracuda). In these, the IVR is built into the Gas Gauge. Unfortunately, I won't be much help to you, but check the people at D & M Restorations out. When I tracked down a wiring problem that caused my gas, oil and temp gauges to not work, I sent the gas gauge to D & M Restorations. They restored it, and it worked great. They are very nice people, and I GUARANTEE they can help you. give them a call.
http://dandmrestoration.com/services/
 
Dizzydean said:
So I originally wanted to check this because the fuel and temp gauges arent working so I thought something was broken on the board, now I dont know what to check. Possibly the regulator? Also where does the cap connection go on this. Thanks for everyones help.
Click to expand...

In the very early builds of 67 Darts with fender mounting turn signals, the factory decided to leave the bulbs and sockets out of the inst' panel. This would slightly increase their profit.
After many buyers came back complaining and service techs were having to install these bulbs and sockets, the install returned to factory assembly. You have one that is still as factory built. It's a interesting bit of trivia to leave it that way, or just buy and install. They will work.
 
tanis4457 said:
Does anyone having a picture of a 67 PCB showing with pins/traces are ground, switch 12V etc...I just removed my 67 dart cluster and want to bench check things with a power supply.

I found this pic, is this correct?

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/67_71Dodgedartinstrumentclusterrear_zps8c98333f.jpg
Click to expand...

I'd have to go get one of my clusters to check. You don't NEED that. Just LOOK at your own. Pull the sockets and hold it up to the light if necessary. You can ID the bright indicator, and the left / right turn, and the brake warning, and the oil warning. The only thing left are the illumination lamps. Then, you just follow the traces on the board to whatever pin. The traces with mounting screws are GROUND.

You have a wiring diagram? Shop manual?
 
67Dart273 said:
I'd have to go get one of my clusters to check. You don't NEED that. Just LOOK at your own. Pull the sockets and hold it up to the light if necessary. You can ID the bright indicator, and the left / right turn, and the brake warning, and the oil warning. The only thing left are the illumination lamps. Then, you just follow the traces on the board to whatever pin. The traces with mounting screws are GROUND.

You have a wiring diagram? Shop manual?
Click to expand...

Yeah I have the PDF of the shop manual, I did some checking in the manual and compared that picture to the manual the colors line up except for one wire color, so I'll be good to go.
 
tanis4457 said:
Yeah I have the PDF of the shop manual, I did some checking in the manual and compared that picture to the manual the colors line up except for one wire color, so I'll be good to go.
Click to expand...

What is the "one." Sometimes things like grey are "slate" or purple are violet, etc.
 
I see no need. Just pick a screw and attach. You can loosen / tighten the mounting screws or add star washers. Do put a pigtail on there
 
tanis4457 said:
Has anyone grounded all the "ground" traces together and then go the frame? If so did you have ground loop problems?
Click to expand...

Some have used ring terminals and wire at every board mounting / ground screw. After doing the same myself, I wont recommend that. Those screws aren't long enough, Threads are weak from the get go. Adding a ring terminal with or without a toothed washer can cause stripped threads in the housing. Then the spider web of added wires could interfere with replacing bulbs later on. Also, If a wire gets a good tug while working in one spot it could break out a bulb socket in another spot.
 
RedFish thanks for the info the tape came off after I got it out of there. So I have checked the temp switch and have ohm readings, the ivr dead zero at all three tabs, the gas sending unit also reads nothing regardless how many ground spots I try plus I found the ground strap had not been connected when the prev owner removed the tank to clean it. So woth all this going on how do I know if the two gauges are still good. Can I apply some voltage to them somehow to test them for movement?
 
I have a 67 Dart as well and here's what I did for testing on the cluster as well as a solid state mod.
1) Get 12Vdc to the input of the regulator
2) Ground the regulator to the - side of the 12Vdc source
3) Test for 5VDC on the output of the regulator
4) Hold the input for the FUEL or TEMP gauges to ground, while the ground is being held the gauge will slowly move up, don't let the need peg out just verify it can go to maximum

It should all be the same with the non solid state regulator
Here's a pic https://www.dropbox.com/s/vzce78fb162ncf7/Instrument%20Cluster.jpg?dl=0
 
You can do better than that for testing. Chrysler used to make a gauge test tool, which is basically 3 resistors in a box, to simulate MT or low, middle of gauge, and hot or full. The resistors are + /- a few ohms

L = 73.7 Ohms (empty)
M = 23.0 Ohms (1/2)
H = 10.2 Ohms (full)

EG for middle, you (used to) be able to go to Radio **** and buy a pack of 4 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistors. Wire all 4 in parallel, this makes 25 ohms. Connected from sender terminal of gauge to ground, this should give you 1/2 scale on the gauge. Leave it a couple minutes to settle down, and hold the cluster "as if" it were angled in the vehicle.
 
Thanks for this info Im going to do this after work.. I love this site everyone has been a great help. My last ?? any advice or sites to go to for my fuel tank and hardware. Im going to replace everything at one time. The fuel has been sitting in the tank for about 20 years i was told and it smells like it. The sending unit is dead so I figure might as well do all of it tank strap sender j bolt. Should I risk used parts except the sender? Again I appreciate all the help.
 
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