Did you ever remove your A/C?

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Actually, it doesn't. "Contain everything." And I'm a guy who is a big believer in them. It doesn't show you the bolt by bolt layout, and certainly not differences, between year to year changes.

Then the questioner needs pictures of a correct arrangement for his compressor. Perhaps you could dig some up for him while the question is open.
 
Then the questioner needs pictures of a correct arrangement for his compressor. Perhaps you could dig some up for him while the question is open.


Tyler stop being a jerk. Perhaps you could do so.

And for your edification, if I knew where to obtain such a thing they would already have been posted. Understand?
 
Took it all out today with the help of a coworker. Thanks everyone. Roughest part was removing the radiator shroud and fan and pulling the evaporator up and out of the grille. Took us 3 hours to remove and reassemble the front of the bay. I have an engine in there! Next the inside box and hvac controls in one fell swoop. They are outta there!

Do you happen to have any before / after pics?

I am ready to do this on my 74 Scamp. The problem is, I'm a noob and don't know if it's safe to just start unhooking the AC components, lines, etc.

I've read A LOT about removing the AC, but that kind of stuff never comes up.

Example - If I start unhooking hoses am I going to be covered is some dangerous liquid?
 
LEGALLY you are supposed to "recover" refrigerant. Of course if the system -----" accidently "---- develops a leak AT ONE OF THE SERVICE PORTS and the refrigerant all leaks out, uh, well, then there's nothing to recover

On colder days, with the engine cold, there will be less pressure in the system!!!!

At 70 degrees F, R12 is very close to 70 psi
 
LEGALLY you are supposed to "recover" refrigerant. Of course if the system -----" accidently "---- develops a leak AT ONE OF THE SERVICE PORTS and the refrigerant all leaks out, uh, well, then there's nothing to recover

On colder days, with the engine cold, there will be less pressure in the system!!!!

At 70 degrees F, R12 is very close to 70 psi

Thank you very much. Exactly the kind of info I was after.
 
I have some pics if you need them. The biggest head scratcher is which spacers go on which water pump bolts, the rest is straightforward. The ac unit is enjoying its new home out west. I will remove the ac heater box next and install a non ac box and controls.
 
Do you happen to have any before / after pics?

Jim (fratzon lover) sent me some photos, but his compressor is NOT factory, it's an aftermarket Sanden

Probably an excellent reference is the factory shop manual. You can download them at MyMopar
 
Evaporator in the grille? ;) I'm surprised that didn't catch hell. We know you meant condenser.
 
I did! I was quite tired as I was typing, something like half a million square feet of floor refinished this summer, just finishing up for labor day and all the happy kids. Its all out and I just have to do the heater box conversion. Someone from Amarillo Texas must think I am nuts LOL.
 
Of course I'm going "the other way" having bought the underhood stuff from Jim, who started the thread. And !!!TODAY!!!! I "cured" the INSIDE part of the problem

Found a complete universal system on CL missing the hoses for 400 bucks..........Top photo you are looking down at the heater / evap unit which also 'does" defrost. The front is at the top of the photo. Top three outlets are AC, there is lower ones for heat, and defrost are the two small outlets to the rear

I'll have to devise something on the air box, as I hate to give up fresh air vent. I may adapt a 'Stang airbox like I did on the left side

Bought one of these on th' bay and cut it down for the left side

DA137-B.jpg
 

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I too am removing the dealer installed mopar a/c from my 68 Valiant. I went to install a new heater core and the heater box had many cracks and fell to pieces when removing it.Cooler weather is on it's way so no heater or a/c for a while. After sorting out the rest of the car and getting it running, I will replace the heater and a/c from classic auto air just like the one you removed.The big thing is if the small block will stay,,,,I may go to a big block, that will determine the unit to buy.
 
I too removed my factory AC when I was more interested in trips to the track than having that big tumor perched in front of the carb. Fast forward and I have now reinstalled all the underhood components, rebuilt RV, refurbished hoses, new drier and converted to 134. The original evaporator and condenser tested fine and now it cools better than my newer cars. July has been the hottest on record in south Louisiana and the AC cools a black on black car in 100 degree. Awesome design by mopar, and you will notice when the compressor kicks in.
 
I removed the ac setup from my 73 duster to toss in a 74 valiant we are reinstalling the factory ac(almost done!!!)
Now I am gonna make block off plate to cover the 3 main holes from the ac setup.

Has anyone found any plugs to fit the oblong holes from where the ac and heater lines come through the firewall? That's the thing I have left.

I will also be adapting under dash fresh air vents and cut the hole on the driver side to have 2 air entry points since duster never have vent window due to the shape of the door frame channel shape.

Building this car with no creature comforts and fun in mind with a 440 swap currently A/C and heater delete, radio delete, manual steering and brakes
All things I can reinstall when I'm an old fart(not anytime soon...lol) and it's too hot with no air or to stop and turn
 
I ripped mine out not long after I got my car, it hadn't been used in many years and was basically empty when I went to crack the lines. I kept the vent system the same inside the car and just unscrewed and removed the refrigerant lines. Kind of a "Roadkill"-style hackjob but I'm a function-over-form guy and losing almost 100 lbs. off the front end was nice. Living in CO it does get fairly hot in the summer but it's very dry. When I do want to make a road trip in the summer I'm just gonna get one of these. Neither of my cars ('70 Duster or 1993 Jeep Cherokee) have A/C so having one portable unit to place in either one is more economical than converting either to true A/C.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpxyKnLTGGI"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpxyKnLTGGI[/ame]


Best part is you can turn it on or leave it running while the car is off it draws very little power.
 
Ever try changing a bypass hose on an a/c small block? The wife wanted me to get the a/c working on her coronet for 10 years.I work on cars 12 hours a day and the a/c stayed on it-unworking because I didn't have the time.Finally the car went bye-byes and I'm glad it did-what a pain in the butt to work on that car! I think Mother Mopar was on crack when she laid that system out. Hate to say it,but Recall Motors(GM) had a better a/c set-up back then. I took the a/c set up off every Duster,Charger,Chrysler 300 and Road Runner I owned EXCEPT for the wife's car and DO NOT ever regret it.
 
........................... I'm just gonna get one of these. Neither of my cars ('70 Duster or 1993 Jeep Cherokee) have A/C so having one portable unit to place in either one is more economical than converting either to true A/C.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpxyKnLTGGI


Best part is you can turn it on or leave it running while the car is off it draws very little power.

That thing cannot possibly be effective or even viable
 
That thing cannot possibly be effective or even viable

Look it up... the guy in the video has been using it for over a year with nothing but good results in a vehicle that has like 5 times the interior volume of an A-body. Water holds a huge amount of heat energy. You got proof it won't work i'd like to see your calculations.
 
Look it up... the guy in the video has been using it for over a year with nothing but good results in a vehicle that has like 5 times the interior volume of an A-body. Water holds a huge amount of heat energy. You got proof it won't work i'd like to see your calculations.

Use your head and think about what you just said

"the guy in the video." WHO IS this "guy?" What does HE know. What is his agenda? Is he telling the truth, or just a schill for the company?

What you have here, folks, is a box full of ice water. OK?
This thing should have a great big "Ronco" label on top and "be sold only on TV"

"Calculations?

I used to install and maintain / repair HVAC / R systems. I know and understand the basics of thermodynamics (certainly of a bucket of ice) and swamp coolers.

OK, so here, this is from their own website........ this is a QUOTE
http://swampy.net/faq.html#anchor349576
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"A MightyKool 12-Volt "Ice Water" Model uses from 10 to 20 pounds (4.5 to 9 kilograms) of ice PER HOUR or more to produce between 5,000 and 8,000 BTU. "
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PLEASE READ THAT AGAIN!!!! This means that for every hour you are tootin' down the road in the hot summer heat, with that marvelous unit outputting a whole "5-8000 BTU" of of "cooling" you will have to stop and buy ANOTHER 20 lbs of ice somewhere.

A typical auto A/C is probably somewhere around double that BTU rating by the way, maybe more on some vehicles

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Folks please use your heads and think. ENERGY. Energy is energy is energy. It matters not how you "think" of energy. You can mathematically compare "the energy" in a gallon of gas, a pound of L/P, or a big lump of coal. The reason you cannot pedal your bike up to 100 mph is that you don't generate enough energy. You can after a fashion, compare watts to BTU to calories, to horsepower, to pounds of steam per hour.

What I'm trying to say, here, is there is a REASON those A/C units on cars "lug down" the engine in heavy traffic. There's a REASON why some of them have dual drive belts. They take actual energy, actual torque, horsepower, and fuel to operate, and that ain't free, by any sense of the word
 
Yeah, I removed the AC in my 75 Scamp shortly after purchasing it - wasn't blowing cold air. I REGRET that move! I kept everything, and have been seriously considering re-installing the setup. Of course I'll have to replace a lot of the original components and don't even know where to start.
 
Use your head and think about what you just said

"the guy in the video." WHO IS this "guy?" What does HE know. What is his agenda? Is he telling the truth, or just a schill for the company?

What you have here, folks, is a box full of ice water. OK?
This thing should have a great big "Ronco" label on top and "be sold only on TV"

"Calculations?

I used to install and maintain / repair HVAC / R systems. I know and understand the basics of thermodynamics (certainly of a bucket of ice) and swamp coolers.

OK, so here, this is from their own website........ this is a QUOTE
http://swampy.net/faq.html#anchor349576
=================================

"A MightyKool 12-Volt "Ice Water" Model uses from 10 to 20 pounds (4.5 to 9 kilograms) of ice PER HOUR or more to produce between 5,000 and 8,000 BTU. "
=================================

PLEASE READ THAT AGAIN!!!! This means that for every hour you are tootin' down the road in the hot summer heat, with that marvelous unit outputting a whole "5-8000 BTU" of of "cooling" you will have to stop and buy ANOTHER 20 lbs of ice somewhere.

A typical auto A/C is probably somewhere around double that BTU rating by the way, maybe more on some vehicles

OH MY GOD I HAD NO IDEA NOW I'M GONNA DIE!!!!!!!!!!! lol 'chill' out :glasses7:

I already knew all this. I'm a mechanical engineer so I'm not unaware of how this works. You put 80 lbs. of ice in a cooler with a bit of water just to get the pump working; latent heat of melting ice is 144 Btu/lb times 80 lbs is 11,520 Btu just to get the ice melted not considering the latent heat of the cold water itself which is significant. Assume a Duster has about 100 cubic feet of interior volume (very large estimate it's probably closer to 75). A highly simplified calculation for maintaining a room temperature of 55°F (very cold), (volume times 6) + (# of occupants times 500). With that you get 1600 Btu/hr; now we know in a car it will be very different since you have an engine producting heat which is coming through the firewall and up from the floor and crappy old sealing designs with hot outside air seeping in so that calculation is kinda useless, let's assume around double at 3000 Btu/hr required. That still gives you almost 4 hours of steady cooling before all the ice melts; then you still have very cold water near freezing temperature that will have to increase in temperature by what, 40°F before it's not cooling anymore (another 3500 Btu or so)? Then on top of that this MightyKool thing has combined heat exchanger AND evaporative cooling which a normal A/C or simple swamp cooler doesn't do. So in essence, 4 hours till the ice melts then another maybe 3 hours of very gradually weakening cooling effect.

Is it as powerful as a real A/C system with a compressor, refrigerant etc.? HELL no. Is it a cost-effective alternative to paying a couple thousand dollars and 10-20 hours (if not more) to install an aftermarket A/C system that can only be used in the car it was installed in? I think so. I'm not even dead-set on it, I would only consider it if I was for sure planning a cross-country road trip in summer time because where I live the summer is bearable.
 
You put 80 lbs. of ice in a cooler


No idea where you are getting the 80 lbs of ice, these things hold ?? a gallon - gallon and a half unless you are talking about their largest model which you ain't gonna get inside your car (you going to remove the rear seat?)




I already knew all this. I'm a mechanical engineer .

So why did you ask? So what you are saying is, you are really a schill for the company, right?

I have better things to do than to carry a tub of ice water around in my car., and I have better things to do than to talk to people like you
 
No idea where you are getting the 80 lbs of ice, these things hold ?? a gallon - gallon and a half unless you are talking about their largest model which you ain't gonna get inside your car (you going to remove the rear seat?)

So why did you ask? So what you are saying is, you are really a schill for the company, right?

I have better things to do than to carry a tub of ice water around in my car., and I have better things to do than to talk to people like you

All those models require you to use a separate cooler to carry the ice. I have an Igloo "Ice-Cube" style cooler sitting in my garage right now that holds 15 gallons. Seeing as the back seats in Dusters are pretty useless and I wouldn't want to take more than one other person (my wife) on a road trip in that car I would just pop out the bottom of the back seat and plop it there.

Now it's time for me to tell you to pay attention. I didn't ask anything, I simply stated I was thinking about using one, then you jumped in and felt compelled to correct me. I never asked for your input. Like I said, chill out... and don't correct people in a demeaning way it makes them not want to listen to you. Maybe if you had politely pointed out some of the facts backing your thoughts I would be inclined to discuss it but going on a rant about how fed up you are with people being stupid and not doing their research kinda just makes you sound like a jerk.

No hard feelings from my end, just my two pennies. Peace and happy Mopar'ing to you, love your Dart FWIW.
 
Peace and happy Mopar'ing to you, love your Dart FWIW.

Nope. Doesn't freckin cut it. You know what you were trying to do. At first I thought you were just being a troll. You are the one trying to start a fight. "I knew all that I'm a mechanical engineer"

Great. Now go engineer something.

"Peace and happy motoring." Not a freekin chance in hell.

Have fun with the 200 gallons of ice water slopping around in the trunk, back there
 
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