Bouncy needle on speedometer

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gdizzle

gdizzle

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So just had my speedometer assembly rebuilt for $170. Installed and connected the cable. Needle shakes/bounces as it gets to about 35mph, then it smoothes out and is stable, then as I slow back down it starts shaking again? I called the speedo shop and he says the cable is faulty? Does that make any sense?
He also said not to buy a cheap cable, and to have someone make me a new one.
help?
66 dodge dart /6
auto 904
 
put some lube on the end of the cable.....
 
From my experience it is the cable. It is bad or going bad. Make sure you put grease on the ends of the cable. Classic ind. sell nice ones.
 
Had a similar issue, put some grease or graphite in the end and MAKE SURE it is all the way into the veer and screwed down all the.

Took care of my issue, going on 2 years now.
 
parishpbs said:
Had a similar issue, put some grease or graphite in the end and MAKE SURE it is all the way into the veer and screwed down all the.

Took care of my issue, going on 2 years now.
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About the same here, except mine would occasionally squeal and the needle would freak out at the same time.
A good shot of graphite power blown down through the cable housing with the cable out, and then slid it back in and no problems ever since.

Anyway, I agree that it's probably the cable and if it's not kinked it probably just needs lubed.
 
I always pull the inner cable out, than I feed it back in while working grease all over the cable that way it stays for awhile.
 
tekslk said:
I always pull the inner cable out, than I feed it back in while working grease all over the cable that way it stays for awhile.
Click to expand...

That's the trick to getting lube where it needs to be (usually the tightest bends in the routing)
 
tekslk said:
I always pull the inner cable out, than I feed it back in while working grease all over the cable that way it stays for awhile.
Click to expand...

Yes, just pull the inner strand out of the conduit (outer sleeve) and lube it. Then replace the strand in the conduit the same way it came out and then put it back on the car.

Maybe use a lithium type grease or light oil like 3 in 1 oil or similar....

Also note that the ends of the strand are ground to a square shape, try to line that up with the fittings at the trans end and speedo end to make sure that they mesh together properly when putting them together. The mating ends in the trans and speedo are also square and sometimes don't go together properly, you have to pay attention when assembling and feel for it and sometimes try to line them up before putting them together.
 
gdizzle said:
So just had my speedometer assembly rebuilt for $170. Installed and connected the cable. Needle shakes/bounces as it gets to about 35mph, then it smoothes out and is stable, then as I slow back down it starts shaking again? I called the speedo shop and he says the cable is faulty? Does that make any sense?
He also said not to buy a cheap cable, and to have someone make me a new one.
help?
66 dodge dart /6
auto 904
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity what shop did the speedo for you?

Redline and North Hollywood seem to do a lot of Mopar stuff and people seem pretty happy with them.
 
Shop I used was in Denver.

Ok so I unscrewed the cable at the dash and the inner post part in the cable pulls out now? Like it is broken ? That inner piece in the cable isn't supposed to be able to pull out, right?

How do I get a new cable that is the correct length and correct connector part? Mine needs to screw onto the speedo, not snap on.
 
NAPA
$20 it fits, no bounce.
I did add graphite powder before installation.
 
Is that the one that says it is 87 in long? I ask because Autozone and Oreillys have several cables, one is 80 in the other is 83 inches. Anyone know how long the cable should be? I dont want it too long.
And Rock Auto is showing an 80in and an 83in. Napa is the only one showing 87in
 
The universal ones come with a staking tool, cut to length (wrap with tape and use a cut off wheel on a dremel or a fine tooth hacksaw), then slide the square fitting over cut end and compress with a hammer or a vise. Use graphite as it doesnt hold grit like grease does. Screw on ones were like 3 years only, rest were bayonet style.
 
gdizzle said:
Is that the one that says it is 87 in long? I ask because Autozone and Oreillys have several cables, one is 80 in the other is 83 inches. Anyone know how long the cable should be? I dont want it too long.
And Rock Auto is showing an 80in and an 83in. Napa is the only one showing 87in
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I have to put a kink in the plans here and tell you that a new cable HAS to go in a certain way.
If you put the wrong end in the wrong place the cable tries to unwind when driven and causes way worse problems.
You want the cable to try to wind tighter when in use, instead of trying unwind.
 
And don't use grease to lube the cable. When you get a new cable, pull it out of the casing and use powdered graphite to lube it.

Grease will pick up dust and dirt and you will be doing it again eventually.
 
ok so the Napa part, is 87in long, which is about 30 inches too long.
I pulled mine off and it is 57 in long.

Searching all the online sites and I can not figure out which part is correct. Pioneer seems to be the maker, but I can not find their catalog anywhere.

pioneer 3159 appears to be correct but it says it is for a MG car?


Any ideas? By the way my old one is in tact and just seems to be gummy. Not sure if it is possible to clean it and relube it???

The new one did stop the bouncing needle, but now I have about 2 feet extra coiled up under the hood.
 
In the past when I had that happen to me, speedo needle bouncing, I pulled the speedo cluster out, then took the cable off, used powdered graphite, the kind used for door locks, and some WD-40 to get it to move down into the cable housing. Other than the work of getting the speedo housing out to work on it, it is a very easy fix.
 
Maybe I can slide out the entire inner cable, clean it with WD40, let it dry then Graphite it and slide it back in? Any ideas how to clean the inside of the cable sheath??
 
gdizzle said:
Maybe I can slide out the entire inner cable, clean it with WD40, let it dry then Graphite it and slide it back in? Any ideas how to clean the inside of the cable sheath??
Click to expand...

I flushed and blew mine out with a little trans fluid and compressed air from both directions, then hot soaped and rinsed with clear water, blew it out well and let it sit out in the sun for a day.
Then shot a nice blast of graphite powder blown through it and put it back together.


A little over the top maybe, but it's smooth as silk.
 
TrailBeast said:
I flushed and blew mine out with a little trans fluid and compressed air from both directions, then hot soaped and rinsed with clear water, blew it out well and let it sit out in the sun for a day.
Then shot a nice blast of graphite powder blown through it and put it back together.


A little over the top maybe, but it's smooth as silk.
Click to expand...

I don't think so.
 
I disconnect the cable at trans end and take it out from under the little metal strap under floor so I can straighten that curve a little. Then disconnect at instrument and back out from under the dash and toward door opening. Flush sheathe with brake clean and compressed air. Wash wire cable well too. Then with tub lithium grease between fingers I coat the cable while working it back into the sheathe. It may still fight me at the curve but not so bad as would have been. I've never needed to service the same cable twice.
 
You guys don't clean your house and garage that well. Graphite is best I grease mine every ten years or so just for ***** and giggles its like a ten minute job. Maybe 15 minutes if your over 200 lb. I also have mine off my 67 barracuda, 61 inches long and it screws on both ends.
 
I bought one at napa this spring for a 65 barracuda v8
It came in at 63"
The catalog said 80" but it was incorrect.
 
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