67 cuda wiring issues
!!! MAN !!! You like to keep us busy!!!
1. I need to connect my msd to 12v ignition 'on' but I'm only getting 11.6v from that wire which is a black with white tracer wire at the ignition Switch. 11.6v isn't enough to fire the engine. I have 12.3v at the bulkhead connector inside the car for that same wire. So I am loosing volts Somewhere?
I have replaced the starter relay but same problem. If I hook that msd wire to another wire under the dash that does have 12v such as the cigar lighter positive wire, she starts straight away but obviously it won't turn off with the key.
I'll have to look, ignition run should be blue / white stripe, not black. HOWEVER that goes DEAD in "start" and you must jumper the brown bypass wire to it. All you really need to do is to hook the original coil + wire to the MSD "small red." You can ACTUALLY still leave the ballast there, or bypass it. When you do so, the brown will automatically be hooked up
2. My RH reverse light is not working and RH flasher/blinker is very dull. When I earth the housings on both near where the globes fit, they
work great. It's weird that's it's both RH side earth problems. Do they share earth the same earth wire somewhere in the harness.
Don't know, off hand. I usually solder extra ground pigtails to the sockets if they don't have them, and ground them
3. Fuel gauge not working. I have the pulsating signal at the fitting to the sender which is new.
If I put power to the blue wire from the kick panel, the gauge goes up to full. I've read a heap of old posts about this but....
NEVER apply power to the gauge sender wire. it should peg in a short time if you short the sender wire to ground
4. I have dull dash lights at the speedo gauge, but not the little vac gauge in the middle or fuel/temp/amp gauge. I have tested each globe and globe holder. The dimmer works, but they are still dull.
You just have to use your head. If you have the cluster out you can actually follow the board traces. Clean them with a light abrasive, even a pencil eraser. The sockets are pretty "cheaply" made, so could be a problem right in the socket. Wiggle the 'eck out of the dimmer control to clean it. Check power down at the inst. fuse (one end of the fuse panel) and voltage AT the tail fuse
Dash lamps are a "trick." First, the headlight switch has TWO power sources, one from the black ammeter wire, UNfused for ONLY the headlights.
Tail, park and dash power comes from the tail fuse. It goes through the switch, through the dimmer, and THEN down to the inst fuse in the fuse panel. So with the inst. lamps on, twist the dimmer all the way left and see what you have for voltage at those two points.
5. At the back of my cluster I have a big red wire and a big black wire that bolt straight to the cluster mother board. Both of these have power. I would have thought the big black wire would be neg and the red being positive??
NO these are for the ammeter, and the ammeter is in SERIES. Red is 12V coming in from the battery, and the black is the "load" side, which branches off a few inches down with a welded splice in the black, off to fuse panel, headlight switch, and ignition switch power. The black continues on back out through the bulkhead to the alternator. BE CAREFUL with this as there is NO FUSE except for the fuse link
Pleas read this excellent article:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
6. My grounding wires are new and I have the following: battery to chassis, engine to chassis, chassis to dash frame.
I don't have one from the sender to the tank strap and I can't see one from the dash frame to the cluster, I'm not sure where to connect it to on the Cluster.
Use your head on the cluster. The pc board mounting screws are all grounds. I ran a pigtail from the cluster long enough to bolt to the dash frame.
The tank sender originally had a "poor" setup, a metal clip that snapped onto the sending unit supply tube, jumpered over the short connector hose, and then clipped to the supply tube up front, which really, "was grounded by accident."
If you have a good big iron you might solder a pigtail to the sender tube, and just bolt it to the body. Tank straps are a poor ground. On mine, I just wrapped some wire around the sender tube and put a hose clamp on top of it. ugly and hokey, but it worked.
You have a shop manual? Go download one, free over at Mymopar
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
They recently added the 67 Barracuda supplement in there, which has info specifically on the Barracuda Rally dash
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