Factory Rear Sway Bar

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74DartSwinger360

The Brat Pack
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Hey Guys and Gals,
I am wantin to put my factory A Body rear sway bar in my 74 dart. Cant figure how it goes in.(Told it came off a 76 dart cop car)
The rear has been switched to an 8 3/4. Not sure if this is why I cant mount it or what.
Any help is appreciated and pics of one installed would be even cooler.
Thanks
 
Pics of mine
 

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Is a b body wider? I thought they were. Not sure now tho
And I know the big center one is for an isolator. Need to get them too maybe.
 
There is a member looking for shock plates right now because of the incompatability of the isolator set up with our cars. I am sure something could be fabbed to make it work but would it be worth all the problems?
 
turn both of those plates 90 degrees in the direction of the red arrow. those plates should be sandwiched between the leaf springs and the spring perches on your rear end. The springs will run like my horrid scribble in blue. Finally, one of your axle u-bolts goes through the two holes marked in green.

I notice that there's a ghost of the spring perches rusted into the plates on the side facing you in the pictures. I'd wager that side goes against the spring perches, and the side that faces your duster's bumper in the pics goes against the leaf spring.

The a-body sway bar mounts above the axle if I'm not mistaken, and the part that bolts to the framerail sould mount forward of the axle. That should give you the info you need to put it in if it's right and will fit. It shouldn't matter between 8 3/4 and 8 1/4, since the spring perches are in the same place on both axles. Though, if the u-bolts don't fit, I'd consider the slotted plates posted above, since they might be different. (or you could woggle the holes out.) And I concur, I believe a b-body has wider framerails, since it has wider spring perches on axles.

Though I've never dealt with this, it's just what I'd try.
 

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Yes I had them turned like that I just have it all loose to move it easier. I tried both top and bottom. No way to work ontop. and under it the ends that mount to frame rail hit right where the rail started to bend up. So didnt work there I just dont know
 
Cause it came with my $150 complete a body 8 3/4 with 3.55s....Who says deals aint out there?
If I get a bar I would get either an Addco or PST Front and rear bars
This is goin on my 73 duster and should fit it fine with it havin an 8 1/4
 
Did you get your rear swaybar mounted? I also have one and I think I can remember how they go.
No I decided that I was just gonna put it on my 73 340 Duster that still has its factory 8 1/4 in it when it gets pulled for a rebuild

Will just get a new rear bar for the Dart when I get to that point of doin new front and rear sway bars
 
Ok so a completely different duster than previously mentioned I decided when I went to swap in an a body 8 3/4 with 3.55s I picked up to try and install the sway bar.

I assembled the rear with the sway bar and springs outside the car and then rolled it under.

The mounting plates successfully sandwiched between the perches and the springs. Without any form of an isolator bushing

I attempted to put it over the axle with no luck so it must mount underneath like I have it.

Now all I need to do is replace the bushings with polyurethane variants that I have just need to track down the ones that go around the bar... And cut the the holes in the frame rail and sleeve them so the rail is not crushed when bracket is tightened down.

One of the many parts to my slow progress on the build:burnout:
 

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That's kinda messed up.
But I can certainly see why you might want a bar on that car.One word; airshocks. Joined by a Tee, right?
Up here in Manitoba, you cannot run your tires sticking out like that, and you will get a ticket,Pronto! And Teed airshocks will shuttle air back and forth between the bags and let the body rub.
The general idea of using a sway bar, you have completely violated. But I suppose if you're careful, you won't wipe out on every corner..
The proper solution for this car, is to put the wheels where they belong;inside the wells, ditch the airshocks and the bar, and set the ride height with properly matched and arched springs, with standard length rear shackles.And then to set the front ride height, and rear pinion angle.
But hey, whatever floats yer boat.
It actually looks sweet, I know, but, it's an accident waiting to happen.
I love the look, and did it to a slanty powered 69 Barracuda, which I drove very carefully,with N50-15 tires back there. I could not get into trouble.
My 74 Dart 360 4-speed,also with those same Ns? That was a whole nuther story.

BTW,on a streeter, a wide footprint is not necessarily an optimum solution. A longer footprint in the for/aft orientation with a similar area,will actually provide more straight-line traction. So if traction is a problem for you, going to a taller somewhat narrower tire, to fit bit into the stock well, is a no-brainer. And by getting the backend down, you will put more weight on the rear tires, helping street traction, and vastly improving cornering with the flatter running springs.. And as a bonus, that will take some weight off the front end, which will of course improve handling. 27 or 28s back there, is all you need, but the 28s sometimes require careful fitting. Mo money.................
Drive safe, take the corners wide, or slow down.
 
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