safety neutral switch

Torrance00 said:

Well nice to see others have the same problem that I have had.
67Dart, that is the correct relay. #1622 I think...but they gave me a (cxxx) saying it
was a replacment.. it laked the screw down connection.. that was my problem
and I emailed them and told them so..
the second photo I have never seen.
I still have the problem. When I turn the key sometimes the car will just sit there.
I do notice a slight sound as if it was trying to get the voltage.
I sometimes just row through the gear selector say 3 or 4 times and then while in
the Park position the car will start. sometimes I just jump the ground wire.
I also just noticed that in Neutral the key will not turn off.
I am sure its the linkage but its inside the trans case. and I am not ready to
take the car in for trans service and have the linkage fixed.
sorry for not posting sooner, but I am deep into one of my other cars,
getting it back on the street... But the 74 is my daily driver...
so I must get it fixed.
best

Click to expand...

OK so let's step back and make this "simple."

1...Power comes out of the ignition switch in "start"

1A.Goes through the ignition switch connector

2...It goes through the bulkhead connector

3...If you have it / had it, the starter signal goes through the reset device for the seat belts above

4...The power next arrives at the "push on" terminal of the start relay, goes through the coil of the relay

5...And appears at the remaining push on terminal, which is hooked to the neutral switch

6...This goes down and is grounded by the neutral switch.

So, each one of the items 1--6 is a trouble point.

1.. You might have an ignition switch "going away."

1A...The switch connector might have a problem

2...The bulkhead connector might be corroded

3...If you have the seat belt relay BYPASS it

4--5...Could be the start relay (originally, I guess you've eliminated that but remember the TERMINALS)

6...Could be a bad connector at the neutral switch, bad switch, linkage out of adjustment, or problems INTERNALLY with the lever / comb in the transmission.

=================================

WHAT I'd do. Since you've had so much trouble, you might try and "rig" some test "stuff.

Run a small wire.........this can be very small.........through the firewall to the interior and "rig" a small 12V lamp, just hang it under the dash where you can see it.

1....Run it to the start connection at the start relay. You can, IE get some flat male / female connectors and make up a short "Y" connection so you can hook it right up

Now just watch the lamp EVERY time you start the car. If the light shines, and the car does not turn over, the start signal IS getting to the relay and it's "somewhere else."

2...Pull your lamp off and hook it to the remaining push on terminal. Again watch the lamp. THIS time it should NOT light when the car turns over. This shows the relay is GROUNDING through the switch, and the relay should work.

A....So if the light shines and the car does not turn over, it's a problem in the NSS end

B....If the light DOES NOT shine and the car DOES NOT crank, then it's in the relay / solenoid wire / starter solenoid.

Just wanted to jump in here. I've been chasing intermittent problems like this. Aside from the usual bad grounds and corroded connections, the starter relay positive post was loose so I was having intermittent voltage going into the bulkhead.

I've been slowly replacing electrical components with NOS, putting dielectric grease on connections, electrical tape to secure connections, etc.

No I don't..
I know I could, I have a jumper ready to use if need be.
Just a strange circumstance. Along with my fuel gauge not registering full, when the
tank is, and I is the gauge. I've done the VR, I've checked the ground
the sending unit is "new" now about 5 years old.
I'll get it all fixed once I get my other car on the street and find time to work
on the Dart.

check the resistance of the newer sending unit , there are several threads about them not being the same as the old units and since that is what the fuel guage is actually reading it is most likely the issue .

I found that my issue was the ballast resistor. No it was not bad. I took it off and turned it upside down then rewired it. That started her right up. I guess there is a path of resistance in the wiring to the ballast resister.

Spunk said:

I found that my issue was the ballast resistor. No it was not bad. I took it off and turned it upside down then rewired it. That started her right up. I guess there is a path of resistance in the wiring to the ballast resister.

Click to expand...

Really ? that doesn't seem like it's possible are you sure it's not a bad connection that just needed to be reset ?

cannucky said:

Really ? that doesn't seem like it's possible are you sure it's not a bad connection that just needed to be reset ?

Click to expand...

You are not addressing the OP, LOL The OP cannot keep the engine from cranking, you are correct