Type of breaker points

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gdizzle

gdizzle

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66 dd \6. sign o the beast for sure.

Having an acceleration issue getting past 20mpg. If I push pedal too fast it will try to stall. If I can get past 25mpg, then I can push the pedal as fast as I want and it works fine.

It is newly rebuilt engine, this was an issue I had prior to being rebuilt.

I am thinking about replacing the breaker points, I bought the part, however I notice on the old part it has a small little felt finger, that my new one doesnt have? Did I get the wrong one?

Or does this sound more like a Carb issue?
btw: all spark plug wires, rotor, cap, plugs are brand new.
 
The "felt finger" was used on some brands of points to lube the rubbing block. You are supposed to, on points without that, put a tiny drop of hi temp grease on the "approach" side of the rubbing block

The illustration below would be correct for a CCW distributor such as Ford or a Mopar B/ RB. You want it on the opposite side for a slant or a Mopar SB

0900c152800ae66a.gif



Don't forget that it could possibly be something wrong with the distributor, wear, etc.

Years ago you could actually buy lube for this purpose, and every good mechanic had a tube in his box

A-12210-L.jpg
 
I don't think that's graphite, but that should be "it"
 
Just to clarify: mpg is miles per gallon (mileage) MPH is miles per hour (vehicle speed)
How does the accelerator pump squirt look when you open the throttle while looking down the carb? (with the engine off of course) What is the timing set at? I don't know about slant 6's but it can cause a hesitation if not advanced far enough.
 
Graphite would be a conductor, so you don't want any of that under your cap!
I just use plain axle grease. Just a dab, and wipe over the cam surface. Any excess gets scooped up by the rubbing block.
 
dont use , graphite, or anti-seize compound. cause if it gets on the points it conducts electricity. and cause it to have ruff running.
 
Yes,use the gel provided in the capsule,as '67 stated on the leading side and
contact surface of the rubbing block.Sounds to me like the carb level is only half full or the
thing is caked w/residue somewhere in the passages.What's the history on the carb/fuel
system?Dirt/rust in the tank,fuel pump output,carb rebuilt or not?
The felt "finger" is just a quality feature that allowed you to saturate it so it
would wick the lube to the cam for an extended period of service,desirable,but not essential.
 
Check to make sure the accelerator pump is squirting properly like ToolmanMike said. The accelerator pump on those is leather against metal and sometimes they wear out and stop squirting...
 
Guys, it's happening at 25 mph, long after the squirter is empty. And once through this and at a higher throttle setting it's okay again.
Heres my 2 cents;
At a light throttle setting, you will be running on the T-ports and idle circuits, all the way to perhaps 70 MPH.
At 5/8 to full throttle, she will be on the mains.
At moderate throttle, from about 3/8 throttle to 5/8,and under load, she will want to pull through the power valve system. See the connection?...........I think you're power valve system is on vacation.
But it seems not lean enough to cause a missfire or backfire, so then look for an intermittent exhaust restriction, perhaps a loose baffle in the muffler.
I suppose that if at this 25 mph is right on a transmission shift, sometimes the shift overlap pulls the engine down, requiring more pedal.
Happy hunting
 
moe7404 said:
dont use , graphite, or anti-seize compound. cause if it gets on the points it conducts electricity. and cause it to have ruff running.
Click to expand...
And it'll round the angles off of the shaft hex or octagon used to move the rubbing block, and ruin it, in a hurry. The same goes for lithium grease; these all cause severe metal surface wear when rubbed between parts.

But it sounds more like fuel delivery. I would start with checking the float level, doing a wet float test if it is a 1920. The float level effects all other carb operations except the accelerator pump and can cause hesitations if low.
 
Anytime the OP has his foot in the loud pedal,the power enrichment will be in full
demand.The lack of such would be even worse at higher speeds/gears where the eng. is
more heavily loaded,I vote for crap in the bowl sloshing back into the jets,where 1st gear
& the sixes power band has "come on" providing the most "slosh-back". Water/alky sludge
etc. a definite poss.
 
Update to this thread. First I bought the replacement points from Auto Zone, TU22 Duralast.
This is not correct and did not fit my distributor, meaning no matter how you adjusted the points, they would never open due to the part that rests on the rotating shaft was too short.

I did end up buying a new Distributor that was pregapped at 18. Installed and running. This seemed to fix the stutter that was happening. Now I can floor it and it will accerlate without hesitating or trying to stall.

The old distributor seemed to have issue with the Vacuum advance, like it would not advance.

Probably in a year when the points start failing I will switch in the electronic version of ignition. hei ? Thanks for all your help. I actually ordered a carb rebuild kit and plan to rebuild anyway.
Also now I need to retime it.
 
Sorry need to revise prior part number. THe part # of the incorrect points is CR1011MV Duralast. Even though Autozone shows this is the one that works, it does not. It was $5 btw.
 
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