My 318 w/850 Thermoquad never idles well in gear, and stumbles off the line

rumblefish360 said
This ^^^^

Unplug and cap or crimp closed the vacuum line to the distributor. Set the initial up a bit more try 15* first. Reset idle speed. Limit advance to 35* max and then reinstall the vacuum line for a max advance of 52*. The vacuum advance canister should have a Allen key to limit the total mechanical advance. I keep for getting the size, but, *I think* it a 5/32. Someone correct me here if need be! You also may like the Chrome box or a FBO box better than the orange box.

I agree wholeheartedly that the engine requires more advance on the timing, but until I have a way to change the mechanical advance it will not take any more base timing without serious ignition ping in current condition. Yes, this is with the vacuum hose disconnected.. Connect the vacuum hose and jesus christ you cant even touch the throttle without getting SERIOUS knock under the hood. It sounds like it has a diesel under there.. ! LOL I see you mention the vacuum canisters adjustment, but then you say it limits total mechanical advance? You mean it limits total vacuum advance correct?

8v, what car is this in? What;
Rear ratio
Tire size
Transmission
And are there any upgraded parts?

This is in a 1988 Chrysler 5th Avenue, it is the original 88 engine.. may have 213k or 313k depending on how many times the odo rolled over. It is my grandmothers and shes owned it since new, her service records that were kept recorded only go up near the 100km mark.. so I mean it is even possible the engine has 113k on it. judging by the interior.. and lack of wear I could agree with that. I'll post some pics with this post.

So;

1988 Chrysler 5th
2.23 rear gear (factory)
215/70/15 tires
Factory '88 904 transmission
Only upgrades are the ELB/ESA delete, and the addition of the 4bbl eddie intake and 850cfm TQ carb.

340fourspeedDuster said
Sounds like the adjustments really helped.
Great vacuum @19-20. Needle is rock solid, right?
Suggestions:
1) Please get some real hose clamps on that fuel line, ditch the zip ties!
2) Get a vacuum plug, trash the short hose with the sheet metal screw in it.
3) Hard to see in the pic, the two screws in the primary bore (choke horn) are there, correct? see photo.
4) Verify that all rubber hoses and plugs to the carb are in good shape, replace any with cracking.
5) Drive the heck out of it and ENJOY!

The adjustments helped a huge amount! However, today the car was back to normal.. even as soon as I started it, there was an idle stumble. I am having a friend put together one of his spare Quadrajets with appropriate jetting and what not, so I will have that to try in a few weeks. The needle doesn't move a touch at all when it was pulling the 19-20in/hg.

1)I feel you on the hose clamps, those zipties have been there over a year! LOLOL I have just never gone back and changed them.
2)Whatever it is I have plugged there has no suction or pressure at any time, I am unaware what it is even used for. It is a small tube that is in the middle of the phenolic bowl section on the primary side.. What does it do?
3)Yes, all 10(? was it ten??) assembly screws holding the three pieces together are present.
4) All plugs and hoses were new when I put the carb on 1.5 years ago, and are still within satisfactory condition.
5) I have been driving the hell out of it even though its slow and runs like poop! LOL

I actually live and work in Alberta, and fly home to Ontario every 3 weeks for a week at home. This car sits for me for the 3 weeks at my grandmothers house in Toronto, until I come pick it up the morning I fly in :) I give her a real good workout for 8 days while I am here, routinely racking on 6-700kms for the week... even though I have nowhere to be! :P

ACTUALLY THIS IS THE PORT FROM 340fourspeedDuster's POST HERE.. it goes in to the primary venturi. Ported vacuum?