VIZ
Well-Known Member
That is impressive! I have alot of work to do and $$ to save but I will let you guys know
Anybody break a stock block, if so at what hp?
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VIZ
Well-Known Member
Anybody able to attach this 416 tt 980hp thread
to the OP..... I'm thinking you'd better have someone "in the know" on how Nos is going to work with that intake. I'm also in agreement, if you are looking for performance..... that isn't the intake to go with. If you're hell bent on keeping it for the visual "WOW" (and it is mighty pretty I might add!) I'd be concerned about distribution.
Our old W5 mill was based on a stock 340 block. 4" Eagle crank and H beam rods, best ET was 9.87 @ 137. We had only 150 passes on it before a rod let go (long story leading back to leaky heads...) Rod and main bearings always looked like new. Block was also filled and we had 2 bolt billet BRC main caps on it.
Our old W5 mill was based on a stock 340 block. 4" Eagle crank and H beam rods, best ET was 9.87 @ 137. We had only 150 passes on it before a rod let go (long story leading back to leaky heads...) Rod and main bearings always looked like new. Block was also filled and we had 2 bolt billet BRC main caps on it.
moper
Well-Known Member
I use the 600hp level as the stopping point when I'm working with somon plannig big power. If you're planning for more, budget for a better block. Stock blocks flex, and more importantly the cylinder walls flex. You give up power before they break, normally. A lot has to do with the casting quality and machining quality. Great machining can enable an average block to perform better long term. But eventually everything will give up. Poor maching can break anything...lol.
All that being said - I was involved with one that makes 556 NA at the crank, and another 200 on the plate. In a heavy, all-steel street car with a cage it went low 10s on spray.
All that being said - I was involved with one that makes 556 NA at the crank, and another 200 on the plate. In a heavy, all-steel street car with a cage it went low 10s on spray.
MikeD
Well-Known Member
I dont know how heavy your car is or how much it was leaning out but 500 hp will net you 10.90 in a 32-300 # car. If your car is 579 hp you should be able to run at least 127 and mid 10's. My car is around 600 hp at around 3150#
Mick
Mick
mshred
The Green Manalishi
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im making ATLEAST 100hp more on nitrous then the 600hp limit with a stock 91 LA block that is half filled, stock caps and bolts. Motor sees 7200rpm every pass, oh and its a 4" arm engine...knock on wood maybe, but no issues so far. To be honest, I think the stock SB blocks are pretty tough- is an aftermarket block a better option, sure, but before being afraid about the block I would be afraid of that intake and the distribution issues it might cause when spraying, which could lead to some expensive bottom end breakage
VIZ
Well-Known Member
Yeah when I started this build everything is built around this intake cam, heads, I'm probably loosing 20-40 horse with this intake but then again....I have always wanted to see a moderately high hp build, I am also trying to find guys that have run nitrous on any kind of crossram with a open style plentuim, ....not any on internet that I have found yet.
VIZ
Well-Known Member
My car weighs #3580-3600 with me in it
moper
Well-Known Member
Filling it, or 1/2 filling it, really changes the breaking point. My comments are about full wet factory blocks, and no boost. With a fill they'll go a bit higher as long as the walls are good and EFI turbos especially make "safe" power. Those engines will far exceed what a N/A or N2O engine can do.
drugster
Well-Known Member
Spray the hell out of it and update us later
Lol¡¡
Rodzilla
Well-Known Member
Mine has no filler,,,might do a refresh with new rings this winter, gap for spray and hit with a 150 shot,,,see what happens :shock: For 150shot do I even need a different gap? I sprayed a couple late model mustangs with 125-150 shots with no issue.
My machinest said he had never seen a better 340 for cylinder wall thickness, and minimal coreshift from casting (that sound right, it was 3.5 yrs ago?) in his 30yrs on the job. So hopefully that a good sign. And if you were curious its a '73 block.
Sorry if this is semi-highjacking.
My 73 340 stock block (has a 3.79 billet crank)made 662 hp at 7300 rpm on 93 octane. It has no hard block or any kind of filler in it. I have not turned it to 7300 yet I shift at 6800 rpm and have run a best of 6.21 @110 in the 1/8 so far at 2950 lbs. So far it has run fine for a couple hundred passes and a lot of street miles.
Rodzilla
Well-Known Member
Nice! I've got close to 2500miles on mine,,,only 2 trips down the quarter. No issues.
mshred
The Green Manalishi
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To be honest I think a wet factory block can take 650hp no problem, or atleast I would have no problem pushing it to that and even more...Just my opinion, but I really do think the SBM's are tough. Obviously boost brought in nicely is much less harder on the block, and the tune is everything
This has my interest, I'm in a similar situation.. I bought a 340 .060 over complete and love nitrous. The motor was such a deal I could not pass it up. I sprayed a stock cast crank , stock rods and rod bolts 318 last year and ran 10's. Held up fine made about 10 passes..
I would love to hit this motor with a 250 but I'm a little nervous of the .060 over. I'm curious to what your machinest said about the thick walls.. I have a 73 block also.. Is the last digit on your block a -1? ( 340-1) I'm trying to find out about the core shift talked about and since he said yours is so good I was wondering.
Nice looking motor!
I would love to hit this motor with a 250 but I'm a little nervous of the .060 over. I'm curious to what your machinest said about the thick walls.. I have a 73 block also.. Is the last digit on your block a -1? ( 340-1) I'm trying to find out about the core shift talked about and since he said yours is so good I was wondering.
Nice looking motor!
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