hi, im new to the forums and thinking of picking up this car as a project 1971 dodge dart, can anyone tell me what it would be worth, its a insurance auction so i dont if it runs or rust, any info on what i should pay would be mush appreciated
what is this 1971 worth for a project
- Thread starter crxnug
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The one thing that would concern me about it, is how hard it hit. It "could" have bent the frame rail, and tweaked the whole car. If that's the case you could end up with a car that tracks a little sideways going down the road.
skep419
No show, all go!
I probably wouldn't give more than $2500. The right front frame rail is probably jacked. Inner fender looks way out of shape. All else fails the drivetrain could be put into another car.
Yep, I would look at it as the sum of all of the parts, what those are worth and base your decision/bid on that.
moper
Well-Known Member
Oh it's not a "maybe it's bent". That car is bent. I would venture ti guess you will need a new right rail, right inner fender, right fender, front lower tie bar, and soe time on the rack to pull the left one back in line prior to the new parts going on. That's not an easy fix. If it's a numbers 340 car and you can do most of it yourself then it's worth a thousand or maybe a little more. If not - you'll have $10K into the body of a $7K car.
68gtxman
I used to reMember
I had a 1984 Turbo T-bird that was involved in a head-on collision. It bent both front frame rails. The shop welded on two donor frame rails and straightened the frame for only $800 in NJ. Don't give up so fast on this car.
Can't be a numbers 340 car if it's a 71 unless it'sa canadian car..
It would require a pretty thorough inspection prior to bidding. You could end up with a real headache on your hands.
If the driveline is a 340/8.75 it's worth 1500ish is my guess, maybe more,
It would require a pretty thorough inspection prior to bidding. You could end up with a real headache on your hands.
If the driveline is a 340/8.75 it's worth 1500ish is my guess, maybe more,
The impact looks to be directly in line with the K member. This could be good and the rail could have been saved, or it could be bad and shifted the whole front end, which is what it looks like to me with the driver fender poking out past the door. The rest of the car "looks" nice, but you will want to snoop over the bodywork and see if it was a lipstick job or not. The engine "appears" to run fairly well, as they lost control of it! If it has an 8 3/4 in it that has some value. I myself would bid it as a fairly decent drive train and sell able parts. Example would be the hood / scoops, the driver fender, rims / tires, rear bumper, grill, the interior etc. I imagine if you have any competition there it will exceed $2500 - $3000.
Moparbrad
You don’t know me
Wow! Some of you guys are really scared about a little fender bender. You do realize these cars fold up if you sneeze too hard on them, right? That was a low mph impact. Yes, the rail is bent but that's why they make frame racks and have skilled body techs. That car is FAR from being a parts car or engine donor. I've been around and fixed totals pretty much my whole life. Easy fix right there.
Not scared, it certainly can be fixed, but you have to bid accordingly. You sure aren't going to buy it as if nothing is wrong with it!
No one said it's a parts car.\\ The above ^^^is correct.
I would not bid more than the sum of parts on that car, (what I could get out of it if I parted it).
It probably isn't that bad, but why dive in head first and take a whoopin (maybe).
EL5DEMON340
Well-Known Member
If it was mint it would have a hard time getting 10k, the engine looks like it has good parts, good radiator, assuming a 8.75 rear I would go as high as 2k if the body is cheap to fix then you did good, if not you should get your money back on parts.
dozer556
Not old school. Just old.
From my perspective, it depends on how much MORE you're willing to spend on it to make it right. It certainly looks like a street/strip car - fiberglass racing buckets, ratchet shifter, big tach, no heater hoses, skinny front tires with what look like slicks in the rear, etc.. No cage, though. It would make me question how hard it was beat on.
If you're buying it for parts, then determine what the cost/value is to you and bid accordingly.
If you're buying it to restore, add your high bid estimate to your estimate for repairs, then calculate if it's within your budget. If you're going to bid $2500 and spend $5500 on repairs, then you're going to spend roughly $8k. Probably more, as you know how these things go, but let's keep it simple.
If you have that $8k budget, you might be better off finding something straight and running for the money. Just a thought.
If you're buying it for parts, then determine what the cost/value is to you and bid accordingly.
If you're buying it to restore, add your high bid estimate to your estimate for repairs, then calculate if it's within your budget. If you're going to bid $2500 and spend $5500 on repairs, then you're going to spend roughly $8k. Probably more, as you know how these things go, but let's keep it simple.
If you have that $8k budget, you might be better off finding something straight and running for the money. Just a thought.
WildCat
Well-Known Member
Depending on who bids it might go cheap
The insurance company totalled it, so they figure it would cost more than the value of the car.
It previous owner might also want it back, but would think he would have had that option before he settled
As others have said figure your budget, what you would be comfortable bidding, if it is a sealed bid then give them a number, if it is an actual auction then set your high bid and DONT get caught up in the excitement.
The engine compartment sheet metal looks solid, so the rest of the car might be good, but pictures can be deceiving.
Was a factory AC car, motor looks like it is a fresh motor as clean as it is and paint looks nice, not a bad set of wheels. So if nothing else there are plenty of good parts if the body is worse than the pictures show.
I would want to look at it before bidding and most places allow this. But if you could get it for $1,500 you couldn't go wrong as long as it is a running lot drivable car.
My 2 cents
The insurance company totalled it, so they figure it would cost more than the value of the car.
It previous owner might also want it back, but would think he would have had that option before he settled
As others have said figure your budget, what you would be comfortable bidding, if it is a sealed bid then give them a number, if it is an actual auction then set your high bid and DONT get caught up in the excitement.
The engine compartment sheet metal looks solid, so the rest of the car might be good, but pictures can be deceiving.
Was a factory AC car, motor looks like it is a fresh motor as clean as it is and paint looks nice, not a bad set of wheels. So if nothing else there are plenty of good parts if the body is worse than the pictures show.
I would want to look at it before bidding and most places allow this. But if you could get it for $1,500 you couldn't go wrong as long as it is a running lot drivable car.
My 2 cents
Louie70Dart
Southern IL. Complete opposite of k-town
Sure its a '71? Because it has the '70 rear bumper.
j061093409
1970 Dart Swinger 340 Reg
car had a/c and looks like it was built to go fast - probably beat on also.
should be a $1500 car
radiator plus hood scoops plus engines worth that
should be a $1500 car
radiator plus hood scoops plus engines worth that
Princess Valiant
A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
I guess I am missing where the inner fender looks totally bent ........
I bet a new fender and bumper and some tweaking with a porta power is the fix. Its possible the hood pushed the driver fender out and could be re-adjusted. looks like its missing the nut that bolts the fender to the cowl that most restorers leave out because its hard to get to.
the hood doesn't close because the passenger side fender is jamming into it and most of the damage looks in the fender to me
I bet a new fender and bumper and some tweaking with a porta power is the fix. Its possible the hood pushed the driver fender out and could be re-adjusted. looks like its missing the nut that bolts the fender to the cowl that most restorers leave out because its hard to get to.
the hood doesn't close because the passenger side fender is jamming into it and most of the damage looks in the fender to me
Princess Valiant
A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
71 for sure because the passenger inner fender changed in mid-71 to add a charcoal can and make it so it wouldn't get in the way of the alt. (on /6)
this one has the later style inner fender, with the holes drilled implying something was there I would say this is a late 71. For sure not a 70, 70 has the older style inner fender which is smooth over by the alt.
Moparnutt340
Well-Known Member
Is that at the London auction ?
When asking a value on this site you should consider that most of your answers will be from members in the USA. What this car is worth there is way out in left field as to what its worth here in Canada. With the prices I see in the U.S, I'd have a yard full of Mopars, lol
Looks fixable to me, but if not, it also has a lot of good parts on it. I'd be willing to bet that car will fetch $5000 easy at an auction in SW Ontario. Billet Specialty wheels, nice interior stuff other than the crap front seats, motor looks fresh.
I wont go into detail on parts prices but I can tell you I parted one out 2 years ago for over $10,000 and it didn't even have a motor & trans
When asking a value on this site you should consider that most of your answers will be from members in the USA. What this car is worth there is way out in left field as to what its worth here in Canada. With the prices I see in the U.S, I'd have a yard full of Mopars, lol
Looks fixable to me, but if not, it also has a lot of good parts on it. I'd be willing to bet that car will fetch $5000 easy at an auction in SW Ontario. Billet Specialty wheels, nice interior stuff other than the crap front seats, motor looks fresh.
I wont go into detail on parts prices but I can tell you I parted one out 2 years ago for over $10,000 and it didn't even have a motor & trans
dozer556
Not old school. Just old.
Funny, that. We think the prices you guys have for Mopars in Canada is way out in left field compared to here in the U.S.
Don't blame us for the miserable exchange rate, either. It's not our doing that $1 USD = $5,000 CAD, or something like that.
70DartMike
Too many projects
The prices for Canadian cars has been way out in left field long before our dollar went to ****.
Funny, I thought they were in left field around here too.
I stopped and asked a guy about a 72 Scamp that is sitting out in a field rotting away. He wants 5 grand for it, it's still sitting there. :banghead:
I stopped and asked a guy about a 72 Scamp that is sitting out in a field rotting away. He wants 5 grand for it, it's still sitting there. :banghead:
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