Battery Not Charging
!!GREAT!! That is the 70/ later Chrysler built system. Here's the basic diagram:
Follow along from the top of the ballast resistor. That is switched 12V "ignition run" supplied by the ignition switch.
It feeds off to one field connection "BLUE"
It also feeds to the center "IGN" terminal of the VR
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The green wire on your alternator only goes one place.........from the remaining field terminal back up to the VR
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The VR MUST be grounded. I would remove, scrape around the bolt holes, and remount. "Work" the VR connector in/ out several times, inspect inside for corrosion, and feel for tightness.
You can...........turn the key on in subdued lighting. Remove the easiest to reach field wire from the alternator and touch / unhook it from the field terminal more than once if needed, see if you can see or hear a spark each time.
(In your photo that appears to be the green wire)
If so, take our meter, key on, and measure voltage at the two. The blue should measure "same as battery" and the green should measure quite low, perhaps 1 volt. If the green measures "same as battery" or zero, either one. Something is wrong.
Disconnect the green. Connect an alligator clip lead to that exposed alternator terminal, and to ground. Recheck the blue, should be "same as battery" Disconnect / reconnect your clip lead, listen, look for a small spark.
Start and run, slowly bring up RPM and look for a charge. If it charges, alternator is LIKELY OK. If not
Move your multimeter to the alternator large output stud. Again bring up RPM. IF voltage goes quite high--16--18 volts and yet shows no increase at the battery, you have a problem in the output circuit
If voltage stays down below 13V 'same as battery' the alternator is NOT charging
===========================================
If the test above showed a charge, now determine if the VR wiring is OK. Reconnect wiring "normal." This time, remove the BLUE wire at the alternator and ground that field terminal.
Now remove the VR connector and (using screws, etc) figure a way to jumper across the two VR terminals. You can also make the test while handholding a piece of wire in there
Again run the engine, monitoring battery voltage. Jumper the VR connector terminals, bring up RPM some and see if it charges.
If not, replace the alternator. DEMAND the parts jock gives you one with a "squareback" diode setup like you have now. Do NOT accept the older "roundback"
============================================
If the last test above ALSO shows charge, confirm that the VR is grounded. If it is, replace the VR
=============================================
Also drop by MyMopar which is where the diagram came from above. You can download free shop manuals for some years (some of which came from the guys here at FABO) as well as other information. No, LOL, I do not work there
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
!!GREAT!! That is the 70/ later Chrysler built system. Here's the basic diagram:
Follow along from the top of the ballast resistor. That is switched 12V "ignition run" supplied by the ignition switch.
It feeds off to one field connection "BLUE"
It also feeds to the center "IGN" terminal of the VR
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The green wire on your alternator only goes one place.........from the remaining field terminal back up to the VR
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The VR MUST be grounded. I would remove, scrape around the bolt holes, and remount. "Work" the VR connector in/ out several times, inspect inside for corrosion, and feel for tightness.
You can...........turn the key on in subdued lighting. Remove the easiest to reach field wire from the alternator and touch / unhook it from the field terminal more than once if needed, see if you can see or hear a spark each time.
(In your photo that appears to be the green wire)
If so, take our meter, key on, and measure voltage at the two. The blue should measure "same as battery" and the green should measure quite low, perhaps 1 volt. If the green measures "same as battery" or zero, either one. Something is wrong.
Disconnect the green. Connect an alligator clip lead to that exposed alternator terminal, and to ground. Recheck the blue, should be "same as battery" Disconnect / reconnect your clip lead, listen, look for a small spark.
Start and run, slowly bring up RPM and look for a charge. If it charges, alternator is LIKELY OK. If not
Move your multimeter to the alternator large output stud. Again bring up RPM. IF voltage goes quite high--16--18 volts and yet shows no increase at the battery, you have a problem in the output circuit
If voltage stays down below 13V 'same as battery' the alternator is NOT charging
===========================================
If the test above showed a charge, now determine if the VR wiring is OK. Reconnect wiring "normal." This time, remove the BLUE wire at the alternator and ground that field terminal.
Now remove the VR connector and (using screws, etc) figure a way to jumper across the two VR terminals. You can also make the test while handholding a piece of wire in there
Again run the engine, monitoring battery voltage. Jumper the VR connector terminals, bring up RPM some and see if it charges.
If not, replace the alternator. DEMAND the parts jock gives you one with a "squareback" diode setup like you have now. Do NOT accept the older "roundback"
============================================
If the last test above ALSO shows charge, confirm that the VR is grounded. If it is, replace the VR
=============================================
Also drop by MyMopar which is where the diagram came from above. You can download free shop manuals for some years (some of which came from the guys here at FABO) as well as other information. No, LOL, I do not work there
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31