How to Narrow an 8 3/4 Rear End

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Mine has a 1 3/4" cold rolled shaft, not sure what the spec is, but you'll have to ask speedy or you metal source for one that is straightest. I see the kit from leadmine uses a 1 1/4" bar, I think that's a little on the small side, but could be wrong. I actually just spun out a set to keep for myself and made the plug's out of steel, with a 1 1/2" hole for the bar. I have a couple buddies that want there's done so I figured I'd make my own kit.
 
Hmm ok. I'll have to check what the diameter is, mine is the leadmine kit. I suppose I could always have my machinist open up the inner diameter a bit.

I've got a couple of hot rod projects too, and a couple of C-body 8 3/4's from the local yards because they seem to show up on occasion and they're practically a steal, $160 for a complete 8 3/4 with brakes and a center chunk. Since the C-body axles can be cut down I figured the kit was a good investment, but I haven't had the need to use it yet. Figured it might come in handy too if I 4-link my duster, just to make sure the housing stays straight when I weld on the brackets.
 
Hmm ok. I'll have to check what the diameter is, mine is the leadmine kit. I suppose I could always have my machinist open up the inner diameter a bit.

I've got a couple of hot rod projects too, and a couple of C-body 8 3/4's from the local yards because they seem to show up on occasion and they're practically a steal, $160 for a complete 8 3/4 with brakes and a center chunk. Since the C-body axles can be cut down I figured the kit was a good investment, but I haven't had the need to use it yet. Figured it might come in handy too if I 4-link my duster, just to make sure the housing stays straight when I weld on the brackets.

That's funny, I tore the axles out of 3 different C bodies last week, and all were tapered shaft, I guess they came both way's from what I understand, but yeah for $160 I'd buy them all day long and shorten them to re-sell !! Our local yard has about 10 different 8 3/4's that I know of, and there $250 complete, with a $50 core charge :wack:
 
I guess the best place to look for axles are truck's, and C body wagons from what I'm told, those are straight shaft and can be re splined
 
What did the shipping run you Rob?

That's not a bad price for the rod.

I got it years ago when shipping wasn't insane. I think it was in the $20 range for delivery. You're a bunch closer to them than me. Might help with cost if you need one.
 
I got it years ago when shipping wasn't insane. I think it was in the $20 range for delivery. You're a bunch closer to them than me. Might help with cost if you need one.

I can drive to the Michigan location, lol.
 
Love that color !!! What size NITTO's you going with ?


Thank's, went with 275/60/15 $300 a pair shipped to my door from discount tire! I took 4 1/2" off what a stock length housing is, so I should be able to have good clearance all the way around
 
What are you guys using for the bar?

I bought the plug kit as well, but haven't sourced the bar to complete the jig yet.

I just went down to my local steel supplier and got some plain round steel tube when I made my setup, you can even use exhaust tube it just has to be straight enough. People seem to think a solid steel bar is the way to go, but that's not exactly the case because when you do the procedure correctly the bar should be a guide, not a load bearing device.
 
I just went down to my local steel supplier and got some plain round steel tube when I made my setup, you can even use exhaust tube it just has to be straight enough. People seem to think a solid steel bar is the way to go, but that's not exactly the case because when you do the procedure correctly the bar should be a guide, not a load bearing device.

True, the bar shouldn't get hot or hold the housing in place , just guide it , but some heat will transfer into the bar and heat can cause distortion. I'm sure people have done it a million different ways, I'm just trying to take any chance of it move out of the equation.
 
Would be nice, but depends on the price :) actually Summit and Mancini sell them for about $150 each for the 30 spline.
 
May i ask why shorten the axle if doing the 3 inch inboard relocate? just weld new perches inboard like mine has and i fit a 295 65 15 easy.
 
Looking good. Watch out moving things back too much or the shackles will be at the wrong angle and may hit the frame when you hit a bump or if the car squats hard on takeoff
 
May i ask why shorten the axle if doing the 3 inch inboard relocate? just weld new perches inboard like mine has and i fit a 295 65 15 easy.

That works fine if your wheels have the correct offset. If they don't have the right offset they won't sit where you want. I'm narrowing mine 1" to pull the wheels in where I'd like them to sit. When using the larger brakes it brings the wheels out 3/8" on each side, thus another reason you may have to narrow the rearend
 
That works fine if your wheels have the correct offset. If they don't have the right offset they won't sit where you want. I'm narrowing mine 1" to pull the wheels in where I'd like them to sit. When using the larger brakes it brings the wheels out 3/8" on each side, thus another reason you may have to narrow the rearend

Exactly, my offset on my wheel's wouldn't give me enough room with spring relocation only, my 225 were damn near rubbing already, so this was the best option, and as far as I'm concerned they should have been tubbed this way from the factory. Wheel and tire clearence is allway's a problem on these thing's!
 
Looking good. Watch out moving things back too much or the shackles will be at the wrong angle and may hit the frame when you hit a bump or if the car squats hard on takeoff

Yeah, I hear ya, my leafs are leaning way forward, so I should have no problem going back an inch. Worse case I'll move the shackles back too!
 
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