4 speed ka-booom !

Oh! I get it. Well then strength is a non-issue, at least for guys like us. I cut out every second tooth( from 2nd and 3rd,only) over a decade ago, and it works great. That's every second tooth of the slider and every second tooth of the clutch teeth. I left the brass rings in. In the sliders, I only cut them back far enough to get them out of the way of the clutch teeth.By leaving the hub splines alone, you don't get the backlash when moving from on the throttle to off.By leaving the brass in, it shifts like a normal tranny, when you drive it normal. But when you're banging it, I can easily overpower the brass, and because of the extra room created by the mod, there is no grinding involved. And best of all I got to keep my short-stick H-pattern shifter, so it's fully streetable. Now, I know some guys are using the V-Gate on the street, but for me, who used to put on 12,000 miles a year on my S, downshifting was a super PITA. So hallelujah, I got the best of both worlds.
Oh yeah, while I was in there, I cut 3 shallow grooves across the faces of each cone(all 4 of them), about 120* apart; about 3/16" wide,and about .040 to .050 deep. This, to provide a place for the oil to escape, during the braking action. I did all the mods at once, so I can't say with conviction that it made a difference, But I believe it musta, cuz no 833 I've ever shifted works like mine. LIGHTNING. And forget straight EP oils. I use 50/50, ATF and EP 80/90. If I had a track only car I'd run straight ATF. But for street, I thought it prudent to put some EP oil in there to protect the countershaft and it's needles.
BTW this mod will let the tranny shift at well over 7000 rpm with no hang-ups, and did I mention? like lightning.
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Oh wait. Did you say that Brewers is taking out 2 out of every 3 teeth? And a matching number off the clutch teeth? Is that right? I think that would create excessive backlash on the street. It should work fine in a track car. Perhaps even better than taking every other tooth.
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I'll throw something else at you. Your shift rpm is determined by your horsepower curve, which in large part is governed by the camshaft, and by the % rpm drops during the shifts. What that means is; theres no point in reving it to the moon, before shifting.If the mph shows that shifting at 6000 is adequate, then shifting at any other rpm is just extra wear and tear.
The above mod works no matter what, but the stock system works really well to 5000rpm,and pretty well to 6000. Somewhere, after that, there's room for improvement. But you gotta ask yourself if the money and time is worth it, for almost no gain in mph, and very little in ET.What you will get for your coin is consistency. With 1/2 shift rods and properly adjusted links, miss-shifts wil be a thing of the past, even with an H-pattern shifter. My tranny has not hung up in probably 10 years or more.
I would think the money would be better spent elsewhere. Like getting off the line. Theres way more ET to be gained there, by getting out hard,consistently.
If you've caught some of my other posts, you may have heard me mention that I often shift my S at 7000 or more. It's not that I need to, cuz I have a small 232*cam and tight % rpm drops. No,it's because the engine goes there without significant power loss and it sounds crazy out the tps, and it makes me feel like an idiot schoolboy, hearing all that "giddy-up"!