4 speed ka-booom !
^^^^ lower rpm starts and more tire pressure for slip are the plan.
That won't help. You bought a junk clutch. I'm only on page 3 of 5 pages but if you think you want to keep playing with a stick you better learn how the CLUTCH works long before you care about how the gearbox works. You can't buy a junk clutch and then try and bandaid the thing with the 2 step and tire pressure or worse yet, a dude that calls himself weedburner will come along and try to sell you his screen door slider deal.
You can save yourself a ton of greif and wasted time and money if you just suck it up and buy the sof-lok now. Send you can to Lakewood and pay them the $250.00 for the window and recert and LEARN how clutches WORK and how to TUNE with the clutch. I twisted 35 spline axles in a Dana with a junk clutch. I wasted more A833 4 speeds than I care to mention because I didn't LEARN clutches. You can be competitve with a stick, but the LAST people you want to learn from is the guys telling you to put a auto puker in it. Go look at STOCK eliminator guys and what they do. They are some of the SMARTEST dudes around and go unnoticed for the most part. I rank the real STOCK guys with the Pro Stock guys for ingenuity and getting the most out of a limited combination.
Take for example a G/S car (if you are talking MoPar here guys are getting hosed because they have to run 8.5:1 340's against 10.5:1 327's and 350's...NHRA sure is fair ain't it???) where they are limited to STOCK carbs (including TQ's and Q-jets) STOCK intake manifolds, STOCK valve sizes, hydraulic lifters, STOCK rocker arms, limited lift and yet, in my last National Dragster, a G/S car was running 10.90's!!!! Think about that! I think it was a 69 scrungemaro, but it still is no more than 10.5:1 compression, it most likely had a Holley (I can't remember if the 69 350 had a Holley or Q-jet) but it is a factory carb on a cast iron intake running 10.90's. Pretty impressive.
I know it's hard to swallow that you bought the wrong clucth but you did. Sell it to a drive through type or a garage queen and get a soflok. I drive one on a DD basis. The other thing is you don't need a Jerico (in fact, if I had to buy a gearbox it wouldn't be a Jerico, I would buy the G-Force) you need the correct clutch. Then, get a CHRYSLER book on the 833 and read it, skipping ALL the clutch info. Then, THINK very hard about how slick shifting is done and WHY you do it (most guys don't know why it MUST be done with a soflok style clutch). After you get that figured out, then THINK through how to make it streetable. You can make a slick shifted box a daily driver, streetable deal. I know, because I do it, and drive it with a soflok clutch. And what is really sad is the nattering naybob's and knownothing flat earthers can't do it, but my WIFE can drive the car (and does). My wife ain't no sissy but she ain't an MMA fighter either. So, if she can do it, why not you?
You can save some bucks if you can find a used BB/Long cover and send it to Cale Aronson at Blck Magic clutches. He will make it adjustable for you and help you learn to use it. That way you can use the flywheel you already have. Unless you bought a STEEL flywheel. Then you need to sell that and get an aluminum FW, you just don't need the hammer of a 30 pound FW. The disc is $200.00 bucks. So if you have the FW you can sell what you have and pay for the disc and a BB/Long cover (diaphrams are for birth control, not clutches). Then you would need to pay Cale to make it adjustable.
One last thing. Before I had my cover made adjustable, I ran 880 pounds of base (static) pressure and just the lever for counter weight. That's all the clutch pressure I had. The PLATE PRESSURE is what kills parts. For my new set up, I'm going to start at about 700 pounds of base and about 30 grams of counter weight and tune from there. Dang hard to break parts with a tune up like that. And I drive it on the street. So does the wife. If you get the clutch correct, you will have to remove the big "helper" spring on the pedal uner the dash. If you don't, the clutch pedal will stay on the floor.
