Motoblag's '71 Duster
This is how fender covers work right?
Spindle, dust shield, lower control arm after Evaporust and before paint:
Upper control arm getting fancy new bushings:
And done, with only minor damage to the rattlecan paint job:
I really need to expand my collection of SAE box wrenches instead of using that locking crescent wrench.
Brake rotor and hub after an Evaporust dip:
It got another day in there because it was so gunky. That bucket of evaporust is working wonders, glad I got it.
The Krylon paint I'm using can only be recoated under two hours or after 48. I've found it's not dry enough to handle at the two hour mark so it gets a good coat and I wait two days to hit the piece again. I've got everything painted up now, will be able to handle the parts tomorrow.
I also mangled the bent bump stop closer to the right position with a set of pliers and lots of grunting and cursing.
Up next: pound the ears on the frame apart a bit so the upper control arm bushings can fit, reinstall upper control arm, replace idler arm with new part, inspect and regrease wheel bearings, install wheel bearings, spindle into hub, press lower control arm pin into the LCA, boil the new torsion bar dust seal and install on the painted torsion bar, thread in upper ball joint, reinstall everything left over on that side of the car's suspension and set ride height.
The rotor looks pretty beat up, I can get new ones from rockauto, but the studs are pressed through the disc. Need to either crowd the garage with a HF press jobber or farm that out.
Also the caliper is disgusting, not sure if it's worth saving. Once the suspension is all back on I'll push the cylinders out with the pedal and the caliper to assess damage. Those may be sent out in favor of a remanned caliper that has stainless steel pistons.
This is how fender covers work right?
Spindle, dust shield, lower control arm after Evaporust and before paint:
Upper control arm getting fancy new bushings:
And done, with only minor damage to the rattlecan paint job:
I really need to expand my collection of SAE box wrenches instead of using that locking crescent wrench.
Brake rotor and hub after an Evaporust dip:
It got another day in there because it was so gunky. That bucket of evaporust is working wonders, glad I got it.
The Krylon paint I'm using can only be recoated under two hours or after 48. I've found it's not dry enough to handle at the two hour mark so it gets a good coat and I wait two days to hit the piece again. I've got everything painted up now, will be able to handle the parts tomorrow.
I also mangled the bent bump stop closer to the right position with a set of pliers and lots of grunting and cursing.
Up next: pound the ears on the frame apart a bit so the upper control arm bushings can fit, reinstall upper control arm, replace idler arm with new part, inspect and regrease wheel bearings, install wheel bearings, spindle into hub, press lower control arm pin into the LCA, boil the new torsion bar dust seal and install on the painted torsion bar, thread in upper ball joint, reinstall everything left over on that side of the car's suspension and set ride height.
The rotor looks pretty beat up, I can get new ones from rockauto, but the studs are pressed through the disc. Need to either crowd the garage with a HF press jobber or farm that out.
Also the caliper is disgusting, not sure if it's worth saving. Once the suspension is all back on I'll push the cylinders out with the pedal and the caliper to assess damage. Those may be sent out in favor of a remanned caliper that has stainless steel pistons.