Finetuning questions - do I need a high-stall torque converter ?

Heehee
Your torque was so measured; it's just buried in the Hp graph. With a little ingenuity it can be extracted. Dynos dont measure horsepower....they measure torque over time, heehee. I would extract it, to see just what is going on, down low.
Well, at sealevel and a TRUE 10/1, you're in pretty good shape.That cam at your installed centerline, makes a Dcr of about 8.15; which with iron open chamber heads, is just about perfect.Your timing is also pretty darn close.The Hughes fast-rates are sweet.
I do see a TC in your future.
But before that day comes, I would borrow a carb and maybe a rearend.The carb would be with slightly bigger primaries, like a 650DP, and the gears would be 3.55s.The DP, if you can tune it to not bog initially, will really launch it! The gears,won't get you off the line any quicker, but,at 10% more gear, the engine will motor away from the line quicker. But if you cannot borrow that stuff, then the TC will be the way to go. Call your favorite supplier, and follow his recomendations, or Perhaps someone more experienced than me will chime in.
And I would recommend, a part-throttle KickDown valve for around town, and for track duty;at least 4.11s to get your Rs up, through the traps. Those 4.11s will get you about 105mph at 5500rpm.(3400@65mph).If you've been thinking about gears and/or stalls, and you have a multi-purpose vehicle, choose carefully, as it's very easy to go from multi-purpose, to track-only.

Notice that the timeslips show a very significant improvement to the MPH with the addition of shift rpm. You can play with that some more, to find the perfect shift rpm.

One thing you can experiment with is initial timing. Buzz your engine up to the aforementioned stall speed of 2200( in N/P) and check the timing(Vcan defeated). Then add about 3 degrees, at that 2200. Drop it back to idle speed. Take it out for a spin. For this test;do not exceed about 3000 rpm at full throttle, or back-off if you hear detonation. This test is just to compare off-the-line improvement. If no improvement, put the timing back. But if a significant improvement is found, I would dial in 2 or 3 more and retest.On the street, the improvement may be hard to gauge, but the 60fts should pick it up quick. When it stops improving, Jackpot! Rev it up(N/P), and check the new maximum,total power-timing. You will have to mod the dizzy, to take out the difference in timing, from before to after.Then go drive it for a few hours, and have some fun.

You asked about experience with that cam. I have none. But I do with the next bigger one; the HE2430, but in a 360.It was an awesome tire fryer right off idle and with a 4 speed and 3.55s. I only changed it out when it dropped a couple of lobes, when they took the zinc out of our oils back in the early 2000s. I swapped in a HE3037 for a bit more topend. Turns out I liked the smaller cam better.At one time that HE2330 cam,cruised at 1500rpm,62 mph(100kph),with a double O/D, and returned 14.2Km/liter.(32mpgUSg)!At 2000rpm it cruised at about 85mph, and the mileage only dropped a little. That was sweet!
If you are considering a cam swap, bear in mind that your Dcr will fall some,unless you are able to keep the ICA where it currently is. If the Dcr falls, so will low-rpm performance. Then, for sure, you will need a TC and gears.To keep the ICA,with a bigger cam, you will need to tighten up the LSA.