PUZZLER!!! My new motors a dog! what did I miss?

Well I keep hearing about checking split overlap on non symmetrical cams being a problem. So I thought a few words on that would be helpful.I'm not trying to be a smart-a$$, but rather, helpful.
I have a Hughes HE3037AL cam in my 360. The specs are 230/237 @050, and 276/286 advertised. It is a 110cam installed at 104. If you map this out, you will see that the intake opening point is at 32* BTDC, and the exhaust closing point is at 29* ATDC. As you can see there is a 3* (32 - 29)spread.So when using the split-overlap quick check the equal point would be just half that amount from TDC or 1.5 degrees . Keep in mind that a 10* spread in the durations is fairly large and most street cams like this will have less spread being closer to 5-8 degrees.
Now let's look at a typical symmetrical cam of 230/230, and 280/280adv.Again a 110 cam installed at 106* or 4* advanced.This cam maps out to show the Intake opening at 34* BTDC and the exhaust closing at 26* ATDC. That puts the spread at 8*, and the centerpoint(split-overlap) at 4* away from TDC
What this shows is that it's actually worse to check the split overlap point on a symmetrical cam than the
other, assuming the symmetrical cam is not straight-up.
But in both cases the split falls within 5* of TDC
Now let's look at retarding the cams. the asymmetrical cam at 3* retard, will put the split-overlap at 5.5 degrees from TDC, while the symmetrical cam will have split-overlap at 3* from TDC. So in this case, the symmetrical cam comes in tighter.
And that takes us back to post #61, where I said if you are within 4 or 5 degrees cam timing won't cause this kind of problem. I guess I should have said 4 or 5.5 degrees.....
In any case once your cam is in, and you know where split overlap is, subsequent checks could use the split- overlap method.
I guess we'll see...........

At one time, I had the 292/509 cam in that engine. I was so disappointed in that cam I moved it all around, trying to get some street manners out of it. The moving around of the cam caused no issues from 6 advanced to 4 retarded.That was a symmetrical cam, so the split overlap would have moved from 3* before to 2* after.IMO, that was not a very good street cam. It made a lot of power up top, but had nothing in the basement.But it sure sounded fast! I put 4.30s, and a GV on it to make it work, on the street,with an M/T.
The power was all up top, and I imagine it would have been a great race cam.